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Thread: ES-1GL (newbie build!)

  1. #1
    Got my ES-1GL started...the bridge holes were actually drilled for righty, so after talking with Adam I decided to fill in all 4, and am going to get a trapeze stop tail and do a floating bridge.

    I got the 4 holes filled with hardwood dowels, got them sanded down smoother than a baby's butt...my only concern is that the dowels are going to take the stain. I'm going to do a sunburst with wudtone...amber inner burst and mahogany outer...neck in mahogany with aging high gloss.

    I guess with that finish I'm just going to see at least 2 of the 4 holes.

    Or anyone have any recommendations?

  2. #2
    Welcome to the forum. Bold move plugging the holes on your first build... I like it.

    Unless you use a solid colour the plugs are always going to be visible to some degree. I guess you could try a double 'burst and go from Mahogany to Amber and then blend back to some more Mahogany around the plugs... but I doubt that would really work to obscure them. Or, if you're feeling game, you could try to hide/minimise the plugs with maple veneer caps. That would involve drilling out about 1mm from the top of the plugs and then glueing in circular pieces of maple veneer. I've never tried it, but If done with care and precision I think it could work. There will still be a grain/flame difference and, at the very least, the outline of the circles, but the maple veneers should take the stain/Wudtone similar to the rest of the cap. Just an idea.

    Good luck with the build... and what is it with all the left handers at the moment?
    Scott.

  3. #3
    Hmmmm....hadn't thought of trying to do a veneer on top, that might be a little beyond my skill level...but...wonder if there's a basswood veneer out there? I may just have to resolve to the fact with the color I want to do, I am always going to see the holes, and just be fine with that.

    and South Paws are gunning up for a revolution!

  4. #4
    So, first coat of the mahogany deep color coat is done on the back, sides, and neck. I'm pretty pleased with the color so far, seems to be getting richer and darker as it dries...but I am a little hesitant to start the burst on the front.

    I need to find a scrap piece to practice the burst on and make sure I don't screw it up. I really want a very gentle fade into the center (like this http://gregboyd.com/instrument_detai...rument_key=330)...I've watched the video on how to do it, but it seems to be more hard lines. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get a gentle fade? Was thinking to do the outer, and the center, then mix the mahogany stain with a bit of water to fade it in, but have no idea if that would work or not?





  5. #5
    Mentor jarrod's Avatar
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    not that an easy fade that one.
    wonder if its possible to spray a watered down wudtone

  6. #6
    The grain on the back looks fantastic! Nice work mcgrawaw

  7. #7
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    McGrawaw, with the gentle fade of the burst you could try rubbing a reducer onto the area you want to lighten the colour. I've used this on my ash strat --> http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1541
    it is very effective but I'd recommend practicing first as it is as effective as an eraser at lightening colours, as long as the colours haven't fully dried.
    It took me a few goes to get the burst looking like a smooth transition of colours. You will need a separate rag for mahogany and amber to darken where you used too much reducer. It's all experimentation and practice what I've seen so far.
    The back/sides and neck have come up great in mahogany, I built an ES and did the body back/sides the same colour, it suits these body shapes well
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  8. #8
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    Hi Mcgrawaw, i'm a lefty with the same kit, same issues.

    Havent built mine yet.
    2 solutions - make a feature of it, or hide it.
    I'm going to do a rectangular ebony insert and redrill - will look a bit like a thin box behind the bridge pup.
    Other solutions I have thought of are:
    plug and use discs under the bridge posts (like a switch plate on a Les Paul) to cover the difference between plugged holes and new.
    Go a solid colour.
    My solution.
    Wierdys solution
    Your solution - if you handmake your floating bridge, you could make the parts in contact with the body wide enough to cover a plugged repair. My solution is a bit like this - an inset plate, drilled, with the TOM bridge on top

    Good luck, and welcome, I will be watching with interest

  9. #9
    Hey Stan - the floating bridge I have (rosewood) will cover the top holes (or should cover 90% of them). I ordered a trapeze tailpiece to go on it, but I doubt that go up to cover the bottom plugs...so it's just going to be there. I really wanted to get a Bigsby B70...but the only ones I could find for a lefty were around 200. That'll be a future upgrade I guess!

    For the fade...would the reducer essentially be the same as mixing the stain with water? Like, if I 4 mixes...one straight mahogany, one with a touch of water, one with a little more water, and then the amber? Do you guys think that would work?

    Thanks guys!

    Andy

  10. #10
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Mcgrawaw - welcome along - looking nice - sounds like you've put some thought into the build - should be a cracker!

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