Removing Glue Spots

[Bhull]

Hey there crew!

Just wondering if anyone could shed some light on the removal of the dreaded 'glue spots' ?

I am not worried about the spots on the joins around the back and sides of the body, more so looking at removing the spots that are used as filler on the top cap of my TL-1TB. The spots or strategically placed just outside the boundaries of where I would like to spray a burst, so they aren't going to look all that flash with the grain revealing finish I am looking at applying the the top cap.

Just wondering from your experience, what is the best method to mask these spots ? I didn't want to sand the crap out of it with out at least asking first!!

Cheers.

[Gavin1393]

Hi,

This topic has been extensively discussed in various places in the forum. Rather than duplicating it (which of course we will do to help you if you can't find it), but did you do a search on the forum at all?

[keloooe]

Hey Ben, Gavin taught me a really neat trick with the glue and filler. Go to Bunnings and get this: http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...48.aspx?page=2 then get the brass brush and the steel brush (use steel, then brass!), and use them to sand it away!
But, be VERY careful, they sand through the cap very fast, so take it slow! After a few days, it should come out, just be patient, and use the 180 grit sandpaper often!

[Gavin1393]

Here is the full thread - Read to the end!

http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=4...iewtopic&t=140

[Bhull]

Thanks keloooe + Gavin.

I did have a look in the forums for some info on the glue spots, but could not find it. Cheers for the link I will have a read!

The wire brush seems a little drastic, I understand the whole, take it easy, thing but wouldn't it leave a divot of sorts in the flat surface ??

Cheers. Ben.

[keloooe]

It doesn't really leave a massive hole, it just scratches the surface to the point that the glue falls out, and then you can sand it to get rid of the rest!

[Bhull]

OK. Thanks for heads up! I might just stick with some sandpaper and elbow grease! bit worried I will scratch through the cap with a wire brush! Cheers for the advice

[Gavin1393]

Quote from Bhull on April 3, 2013, 10:54
OK. Thanks for heads up! I might just stick with some sandpaper and elbow grease! bit worried I will scratch through the cap with a wire brush! Cheers for the advice

No, don't do that. You will sand and sand and the glue will remain. all you will have achieved is to sand away the guitar's Cap.

This wire brush trick was explained to me by a Patternmaker as being the best way to get rid of stubborn glue. Callum has probably not explained it exactly right and reading his post about glue 'falling out' I'm not surprised you would be reluctant.

What the brush does is to remove the glue without the need to sand away vigorously for hours. By sanding away vigorously you will end up 'polishing' the surface you are sanding. In turn, this puts you back in exactly the same position you were in with the glue; the wood won't take the Wudtone.

Here is why, in order for paint to penetrate the wood it needs to have 'pores' to sink into. Both the glue and the polishing seal off these pores and the paint/stain is effectively blocked leaving horrid patches of dark and light shades rather than a nice even finish. The wire brush will penetrate the glue, removing it and will 'rough' up the wood just enough to allow the stain in. You are not using a industrial grade product here, the brushes are slightly larger than a toothbrush and you need to apply just enough pressure to 'scratch the surface. If you break the plastic handle of the brush then you know you are applying too much pressure.

I have tried every other methos without success and I have had a number of models to build. In desperation I called the experts and this was their solution to the problem. It works....fortunately Adam has spoken to the factory and we understand that different glue and filler products will be used in future by them. If you do have filler problems simply remove the 'top layer' enough to fill with Timbermate and the Wudtone will sink into that no problem!

[Bhull]

Ok.

Thanks so much for your lengthy reply Gavin. Very helpful indeed.

I am not actually using wudtone, I just applied some regular old black timber stain (see the first pic below) and sanded it of almost completely (second pic) so that all I was left with was a little more prominent grain.

Now I intend on applying a thin single coat of this fluro coloured paint I have, so the grain is still completely visible, and then a LOT of clear gloss over that - in your professional opinion, do you think that the glue that is left will be an issue when I apply paint to it ? or is it only an issue for stains and products like that ?

[Gavin1393]

That's a good question. This glue sticks and doesnt like to let go. The issue I see is that if the glue is still there it is likely to come away at some point in the future as it isn't a stable finish if you get what i am saying.
These guitars can last many years and the paint job will deteriorate as the guitar ages through use and being bumped and banged around. Any paint over the glue will not be attached to the wood and therefore i expect it will be weaker at those points. So whilst on the surface it may look solved it really isnt a long term solution.
The other side, is that it will be difficult to level the paint job (cutting) with sand paper and wet sanding because the glue is flexible even though stuck! You might manage to polish the wood by doing lots of sanding and getting rid of the glue that way, but i do think removing the glue is a priority. You have a better chance in, my opinion, of a successful outcome with the glue gone, even though you have 'polished' the wood to get this result.

Hopefully DB sees this post and can add or disagree with my thoughts on it.