Quote from AJ on March 24, 2013, 08:14
Quote from dingobass on March 23, 2013, 19:01
Quote from Gavin1393 on March 23, 2013, 09:59
Quote from AJ on March 22, 2013, 21:30
Hi every one,
Andy here from Melbourne.. Just received the
LP-1 kit, and must say it looks impressive.
'm an older fella that has always wanted to "learn to play the guitar"... never had the time before, but now have a bit of time on my hands.. and thought, what better way to get back into this than try my hand at building a kit..
I no doubt will probably have dozens of questions along the way.
The first one is .. what is the radius of the neck? Is it a 12 foot radius?
Secondly, is it wise to level the frets before starting on the sanding and painting? ( did not see that there was an available service to have the fretwork done before delivery till well after ordering the kit.. so it was the old "oops to late scenario ") When measuring the scale , is the measurement from the fretboard side of the nut to the "top" of the 12 fret (middle of it)?
Is it worthwhile shielding the pick up and control cavities?
thanks in advance
Hi AJ
I thing you are referring to the radius of the fretboard. That is 12 foot as far as my memory goes!
You can level the fretboard at either before or at the end of the paint process but it may depend on the build you are doing. Some fretboards are painted from a vintage perspective while others are not. It would also depend too on the quality of the tools you are using and if these toys, err, tools have safety designed into them. If you are not using proper tools to do the fret levelling then probably best to do this at the start so you dont spoil a great paintjob by gouging a line through your neck when the file slips out of your groove and impales itself in your fresh paintjob!
It is ALWAYS worthwhile sheilding the guitar....which I suspect The Artist formerly known as DB might concur, which reminds me, it's 10am and he never responded to this mail...must have had a big night out?
hey AJ, welcome to the family!
most Pit Bull kits are 14"..... but the LP is 12"
Shield everything in sight is my motto, and use shielded cable for the long run from switch to out put if you can.
the scale length is from fretboard side of nut to top of the 12th.
Very funny Gavin
I was out shopping with Miss Fiona, that is after sorting out twenty questions from our resident Pest...(handle starts with a K
)
Hi every one and ty for the warm welcomes.
Callum, what part of sunny old Melbourne do you rein from? I'm in the Werribee area.
Now, do I make my own radius sanding blocks or bite the bullet and buy an obviously over priced one.. (sourcing them local could prove both laborious and difficult..), also need to purchase the shaped diamond files.
The neck appears to have a slight curvature (back wards bend) do I need to adjust the torsion rod to make it dead straight before starting to level the frets? or is the norm for the necks?
would post a pick here of what I mean ... but don't know how to attach a jpg image here..
Not certain just yet on the color scheme, have given myself an information overload with all the fabulous paint jobs viewable on the web... bit like being a kid in a lolly shop and only a penny to spend..lol I did like the tiger striped one but then again they all looked spectacular. The wood tone finishes, are they acrylic or oil based?
My thoughts on the color scheme, maybe a darkish burgandy or black on the back and front sunburst style ranging from burgandy through red to yellow with a gold highlight? and in the headstock, the though has crossed my mind to do a little either gold or silver guilded pattern ... the desire is to have an almost french polish style overall, without using shellac.
Will shield the whole of the electrical system and I can get shielded wire from the local jay-car store for the 3 way switch harness and hopefully the shielding copper also.
AJ