Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Mikes SV-1L Build

  1. #1
    DAMMIT, it's arrived and it's awesome BUT it has one problem...... THE WOOD HAS GRAIN !!!

    How the hell can I paint something the metallic orange I've been planning for 4 months when it's got grain.... It's a cunning ploy to get me to wudtone it instead...Dammit


  2. #2
    #firstworldproblem :P

  3. #3
    Can't have you suffering grain guilt, Mike.

    Send it back immediately for a full refund and I'll get you one with uninspiring grain.
    Cheers,

    Adam



    adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music keloooe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,162
    If ya want it to be orange, send DB an email (he will probably see this thread anyway!!!), he could mix up a batch of orange Wudtone!!! Plus, the Wudtone will keep the tone and resonance of the wood, meaning a better Axe!!!

  5. #5
    Quote from MikeL on March 18, 2013, 16:44
    DAMMIT, it's arrived and it's awesome BUT it has one problem...... THE WOOD HAS GRAIN !!!

    How the hell can I paint something the metallic orange I've been planning for 4 months when it's got grain.... It's a cunning ploy to get me to wudtone it instead...Dammit

    You could try replicating the colour DB got on his ES kit that he posted in the Finishing your guitar with Wudtone section?

  6. #6
    Spent today pondering ( while at work ) on how to proceed re colour/finish. When I got home I fitted the neck and sat there with it getting used to the feel and I've decided Steve Vai does not sit down with one of these on his leg, coz man, they cut into you... So step one is a slight rounding of the body edges, specifically on the back with a much increased bevel for the torso and forearm lean areas, more in keeping with Strat body curving.

    The scratchplate is pretty rough, with the layers peeling apart on the bridge end, one of the humbuckers fitted on a noticeable angle and a couple of the prefitted screws almost pulling through but no matter, I'm going to replace it completely so I can cut one that fits the lines of the body better.

    The only other area I can find fault is the tuning peg holes, there's 2 in particular that are far enough out of alignment to make the pegs look wrong. there are various simple fixes I can apply to this so I'm not concerned but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for correcting the positions if you want to use Wudtone afterwards. Hiding fixes with paint is too easy




  7. #7
    Overlord of Music
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    3,356
    Quote from MikeL on March 19, 2013, 19:37
    Spent today pondering ( while at work ) on how to proceed re colour/finish. When I got home I fitted the neck and sat there with it getting used to the feel and I've decided Steve Vai does not sit down with one of these on his leg, coz man, they cut into you... So step one is a slight rounding of the body edges, specifically on the back with a much increased bevel for the torso and forearm lean areas, more in keeping with Strat body curving.

    The scratchplate is pretty rough, with the layers peeling apart on the bridge end, one of the humbuckers fitted on a noticeable angle and a couple of the prefitted screws almost pulling through but no matter, I'm going to replace it completely so I can cut one that fits the lines of the body better.

    The only other area I can find fault is the tuning peg holes, there's 2 in particular that are far enough out of alignment to make the pegs look wrong. there are various simple fixes I can apply to this so I'm not concerned but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for correcting the positions if you want to use Wudtone afterwards. Hiding fixes with paint is too easy


    Both the TL-1 kits I have built have had 1 particular tuner hole a mm or two out of alignment. I ignored it and I haven't noticed any disadvantages. After the machine heads and strings went on it's barely noticeable.
    'As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.'

  8. #8
    Both the TL-1 kits I have built have had 1 particular tuner hole a mm or two out of alignment. I ignored it and I haven't noticed any disadvantages. After the machine heads and strings went on it's barely noticeable.
    The machine heads have a bit if play when you insert them through the headstock holes. So, as long as you ensure the machine heads are all level before you screw them in, you should be right.
    Cheers,

    Adam



    adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com

  9. #9
    Just wanted to add, that is a really nice bit of wood (body and neck). I didn't get to see this one before it shipped, but it looks awesome. Mike, I'll be interested to hear how the left handed Floyd Rosd (yes, Rosd) locking bridge works out. I imagine they don't make many of them.
    Cheers,

    Adam



    adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com

  10. #10
    Thought I'd post something since I've been quiet for a while

    Here's the SV-1L alongside the 80% finished ST-1




    As for the Floyd Rosd, Adam, I can't fault it, it's a perfect mirror image but realistically it's only the plate that has been leftyfied.




    What I have been doing is a bit of sculpting, since this is MY guitar, not Steve Vai's. I think I mentioned in a previous post about how it digs into your thigh if sitting down with it, well not anymore the 2 inch clean edge is now a thigh hugging contoured edge.






    Lastly I'm doing the same with the forearm bevel, it's now almost double the original size but I'm going another inch or so more on this.. By the time it's finished it'll be a Stratojem.



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •