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Thread: Sanding

  1. #1
    Sanded my TL-1 body this evening, over about 2 1/2 hours. It's amazing how the tiniest little knock will put a dent in the wood at this point! I'm getting more careful.

    Also, I noticed that some areas of grain, which have that translucent/depth effect, go all milky when you sand them with very fine grit. I thought maybe very fine dust had clogged up the pores in the wood, so I tried to wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth ... which then introduced moisture into those pores, which swelled, and the surface roughed up again. At least, I think that was what was going on.

    I'm not going to get too concerned until I get the Wudtone and read the instructions for that, but any advice at this stage would be welcome too!

    Cheers,

    GGP

  2. #2
    I've also realised my newb mistake - preparation for Wudtone doesn't require that fine a grade of sanding ...

    Will it be OK to go over the whole thing again in 240 grit?

  3. #3
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Quote from GlennGP on January 14, 2013, 07:26
    I've also realised my newb mistake - preparation for Wudtone doesn't require that fine a grade of sanding ...

    Will it be OK to go over the whole thing again in 240 grit?
    Glenn, I did the same thing..so used to getting acoustics ready for painting!

    I have had really POOR results by having a quick rub over with 320 over 600 grit. The paint just would not absorb.
    I would highly recommend giving the body a good sand with the 220 / 240 grit making sure to check that any major scratches are removed. Then go over the body again with Super Fine '0000' steel wool.

    This will prepare the body nicely to absorb the paint, particularly the 'DEEP' colour before applying the base colour.

    I have also experienced, particularly where the guitar has binding, that the glue used does not accept the Wudtone paint. This would result in a 'patchy' finish. If you are unable to sand or use a scraper to remove this glue, try using some Acetone and rub over this patch to remove the glue before starting to paint. Give the body some time to dissipate the Acetone before painting too. I have generally left it to the next day.

    If you do miss a 'patch' of glue - I have had some success with 'dabbing' rather than rubbing the Wudtone over the body. If you repeat this process over the offending patch it will start to build some colour which can be lightly rubbed with the Super fine wool between coats so as to be barely noticeable.
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music keloooe's Avatar
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    Quote from Gavin1393 on January 14, 2013, 09:53
    Quote from GlennGP on January 14, 2013, 07:26
    I've also realised my newb mistake - preparation for Wudtone doesn't require that fine a grade of sanding ...

    Will it be OK to go over the whole thing again in 240 grit?
    Glenn, I did the same thing..so used to getting acoustics ready for painting!

    I have had really POOR results by having a quick rub over with 320 over 600 grit. The paint just would not absorb.
    I would highly recommend giving the body a good sand with the 220 / 240 grit making sure to check that any major scratches are removed. Then go over the body again with Super Fine '0000' steel wool.

    This will prepare the body nicely to absorb the paint, particularly the 'DEEP' colour before applying the base colour.

    I have also experienced, particularly where the guitar has binding, that the glue used does not accept the Wudtone paint. This would result in a 'patchy' finish. If you are unable to sand or use a scraper to remove this glue, try using some Acetone and rub over this patch to remove the glue before starting to paint. Give the body some time to dissipate the Acetone before painting too. I have generally left it to the next day.

    If you do miss a 'patch' of glue - I have had some success with 'dabbing' rather than rubbing the Wudtone over the body. If you repeat this process over the offending patch it will start to build some colour which can be lightly rubbed with the Super fine wool between coats so as to be barely noticeable.
    ARGH!!!! I hate it when theres glue preventing the Wudtone from looking good!!

  5. #5
    Quote from Gavin1393 on January 14, 2013, 09:53
    Glenn, I did the same thing..so used to getting acoustics ready for painting!

    I have had really POOR results by having a quick rub over with 320 over 600 grit. The paint just would not absorb.
    I would highly recommend giving the body a good sand with the 220 / 240 grit making sure to check that any major scratches are removed. Then go over the body again with Super Fine '0000' steel wool.

    This will prepare the body nicely to absorb the paint, particularly the 'DEEP' colour before applying the base colour.

    I have also experienced, particularly where the guitar has binding, that the glue used does not accept the Wudtone paint. This would result in a 'patchy' finish. If you are unable to sand or use a scraper to remove this glue, try using some Acetone and rub over this patch to remove the glue before starting to paint. Give the body some time to dissipate the Acetone before painting too. I have generally left it to the next day.

    If you do miss a 'patch' of glue - I have had some success with 'dabbing' rather than rubbing the Wudtone over the body. If you repeat this process over the offending patch it will start to build some colour which can be lightly rubbed with the Super fine wool between coats so as to be barely noticeable.
    Thanks Gavin, I appreciate the advice.

  6. #6
    Moderator dingobass's Avatar
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    Quote from GlennGP on January 13, 2013, 20:10
    Sanded my TL-1 body this evening, over about 2 1/2 hours. It's amazing how the tiniest little knock will put a dent in the wood at this point! I'm getting more careful.

    Also, I noticed that some areas of grain, which have that translucent/depth effect, go all milky when you sand them with very fine grit. I thought maybe very fine dust had clogged up the pores in the wood, so I tried to wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth ... which then introduced moisture into those pores, which swelled, and the surface roughed up again. At least, I think that was what was going on.

    I'm not going to get too concerned until I get the Wudtone and read the instructions for that, but any advice at this stage would be welcome too!

    Cheers,

    GGP


    Hey Glenn,

    Gavin has you covered.

    As for the fluffing up after damp ragging, that is normal and if you were preparing for a French Polish would be desirable, but for Wudtone not so...

    I have found on the kits that I have done that 400 grit is more than enough, you need to leave a reasonable tooth for the Wudtone to grip. I start my sanding process with 220 then 320 followed by 400. This gives me a nice surface without any deep scratches.

    As Gavin said, super fine steel wool between each coat to remove any streaks or swirls and to create a key for the next coat.

    Enjoy the process and share your photos and experiences with us 8-)

    There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....

  7. #7
    Quote from dingobass on January 14, 2013, 12:59
    Hey Glenn,

    Gavin has you covered. [...]
    Thanks for the corroboration, DB ... much appreciated.

    Cheers,

    GGP

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