I Need Help With Making my First Guitar!
Hi!
I'm a student and first-time builder and I've run into a problem while figuring out how to build my guitar. I noticed that the kit I got didn't come with the holes where the bridge/tailpiece posts go and I know that it's extremely important to have the exact location for those. All I know is the dimensions of the scale Length which is 628 mm/ 24.75″.
I would love to get some help figuring out how to calculate how far down the bridge/tailpiece go.
Hi Andrew.
Sorry to hear that the bridge and tail-piece holes are not there. I do not think that is a common problem!
Anyway, I have not done this build, but have done a set neck DSCM-1, which has the same tune-o-matic style bridge and tail piece.
From the back of the nut I measured:
628.5 mm to the centre of the high e side hole,
632.5 mm to the centre of the low E side hole,
and 674.5 mm the the centre of the tail stop holes.
Normally the neck is placed relative to the bridge to ensure correct scale length of 628 mm for the high e string.
You will need to place the neck (and make sure the neck pickup and pickup surround can fit around the neck pickup route), and then set the bridge length to suite the neck!
I assume you have access to a drill press at the school.
I hope this helps, and good luck.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom.
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
I’d send it back. It doesn’t take much of a measurement error in the bridge hole positions to make the guitar unusable.
It’s far better to mark hole positions with strings fitted, so you can guarantee the strings run down the neck properly, rather than estimating a centreline. And temporarily fitting strings involves a fair bit of bodging. And it is best done with the neck glued in position, which does commit you to building the guitar rather than returning it.
If you are going to drill holes, getting them drilled vertically is very important, which is not easy to do with a 335-style guitar with its arched back and top. You’ll need some sort of jig to keep the body flat and a drill press with a deep enough ‘throat’ (distance from drill tip to support pillar) to accommodate the wide body.
If you need to ask how to do it, I really would advise against trying it.
It doesn’t look like a Pit Bull guitar with those block inlays and single width bindings, so hopefully your supplier will exchange it for one with the holes drilled correctly.
You can also get a help of a local luthier if you still want to drill the tunomatic stud holes and persist with same kit
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I really like the look of that top. Hopefully it's a bit thicker veneer than the ones with flame maple. I'd be tempted to try to do something with it if the veneer on the top is like the veneer on the back... I have asked a number of times about that. What a bummer that you got one...and it's missing some holes!
I have drilled bridge post holes in two ES type basses. In both cases I (a) rigged a jig to hold everything in place, and (b) had the neck fastened in place (glued in one case, bolted on in the other). I used nylon strings, and had the high and the low string in place to mark where the bridge went. It can be done, but you have to go very slowly and carefully. If you feel like attempting it, I'll send you my build diary entry.
I agree with Simon, though, about seeing whether you can get a replacement first...in spite of how much I like the grain on that top.
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