Just starting a es1q build, going to use dingotone Uluru red. This is my 2nd build, a Tele in nitro Daphne blue being the first.
I’m in 2 minds whether to use the dingo top finish that comes in the kit - my understanding is that it gives a satin finish, or to use my left over nitro clear for a gloss finish.
Would nitro over dingotone work or am I asking for trouble?
It's not something that I can recall anyone doing on here. Nitro can be quite picky on what it's happy to exist with, and no-one here is exactly sure what's in DT. DT also has a habit of taking ages to dry, and I certainly wouldn't spray nitro on it until it really has dried hard.
Given the approx 50/50 success rate with DT drying properly, I wouldn't use it myself even if I had the chance, when there are so many other stains/dyes that work as they should.
If you do use the DT, then put some on a scrap bit of wood the same time as you do the body. Then you can test out the nitro on the scrap to see if the nitro reacts at all with the DT. But waiting for DT to dry can take months, if at all. It is very sensitive to temperature and humidity levels. If it works, it's absolutely fine. If it doesn't, then it's a real PITA to remove, and you don't want to have to sand it off the very thin veneer.
Note that the ES-1 neck angle is often cut far too shallow, meaning that the bridge at its lowest setting is still to high to get a playable action. Please check what yours is like before you glue it or start putting finish on the neck. You can adjust the heel angle, or you can sometimes file down the bottom of the bridge and fit flush-mounting bridge post inserts. I ended up with flush inserts and a Goldo Lowrider bridge (the lowest TOM-style bridge you can get), as I discovered this far too late. Now it's fine, but there was a lot of extra work involved to get it playable.
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