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Thread: 2nd build - IC Kit -- Daron Malakian

  1. #1

    2nd build - IC Kit -- Daron Malakian

    Cheers Mates

    My name is Dominik from Austria (no kangaroos) and Yesterday the parcel received. Haven´t got much time to check everything in detail, but on first glance looks great.
    I ´ve done a Harley Benton Telecaster (Thomann) Guitar Kit once, but the body - wood is so light and squashy, even with good care, after the painting process it looked aged =)
    New Christmas Project 2020 – Daron Malakian Iceman
    He is my Guitar Hero – always wanted an Ibanez Iceman but they are rare here in Austria and pretty expensive, and they also don’t look right. Mostly you get the Paul Stanley Iceman.



    Click image for larger version. 

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    Setup:
    Black Iceman Body (Glossy)
    Black Headstock with Gold truss rod cover (maybe a decal)
    Gold Hardware
    Gold Tonerider Generator PU
    Gold Pickguard (optional)
    Gold Tailpiece (I think it’s a fake tailpiece, it just holds the strings. No tremolo)
    I can’t find that Tailpiece (except for a few hundred dollars) so I think it is also optional.

    Question to the pros:
    How to finish the Neck: I don´t like lacquered necks. On all my guitars I have sanded them down, but all my Guitars have a natural finished neck.
    What is the “best” way to do it on an ebony neck?
    Ebony Stain –-> Oil finish ???
    To leave it naturally is also on option because I think I looks cool.

    Cheers
    Dominik

  2. #2
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    Hi Dominik,

    I have just started an Iceman kit. I got a custom special that was in the specials section https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ustom-special/

    I look forward to seeing your progress. An Iceman has always been a dream guitar for me too. For Paul Stanley reasons more than Daron Malakian but I do appreciate SYOD, the new material isn't too bad.

    As it is my first build, I will leave your questions to the more experienced builders in the forum.

    Graham

  3. #3
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome. Good luck with the build.

    When you talk about necks, do you mean the fretboard, or the back of the neck?

    I'm assuming the fretboard because you mention ebony.

    You wouldn't normally lacquer ebony. Just apply either lemon oil or mineral oil (the sort that's designed for seasoning chopping blocks) from time to time to stop the wood from drying out. It will also make the wood look darker. Whilst I've never encountered it, ebony can split if it gets too dry, whereas rosewood is unlikely to, so it pays to keep it oiled (6 months to a year should be fine in Austria). But ebony is harder and has a much smoother surface with very fine grain, so that's why a lot of people prefer it to rosewood.

    Your ebony fretboard will be lighter and have some figuring than the traditional black ebony fretboards that were the norm. Most ebony isn't in fact black, but people just wanted and used the black wood from it, throwing most of the rest away (which is one reason there's an ebony shortage). If you are trying to match a look of another guitar, then by all means stain it black. If not, I'd keep it as it is. I like the look of figured ebony.

    If you are also talking about the back of the neck, then it really is best to have some sort of finish on there. even if most of it is sanded back. The wood really needs to be sealed to stop it absorbing or loosing moisture with changes in temperature and humidity as this can cause the neck to move requiring frequent truss rod adjustment. Even a light coat of something will provide more protection than nothing. A lot or people like using Tru-Oil, Tung Oil or Danish oil for necks as it gives a smooth feel. These are all 'polymerising' oils (made from linseed oil or similar) that basically form a resin/plastic coat as they dry. They are also very easy to apply.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post

    If you are also talking about the back of the neck, then it really is best to have some sort of finish on there. even if most of it is sanded back. The wood really needs to be sealed to stop it absorbing or loosing moisture with changes in temperature and humidity as this can cause the neck to move requiring frequent truss rod adjustment. Even a light coat of something will provide more protection than nothing. A lot or people like using Tru-Oil, Tung Oil or Danish oil for necks as it gives a smooth feel. These are all 'polymerising' oils (made from linseed oil or similar) that basically form a resin/plastic coat as they dry. They are also very easy to apply.
    Hi Simon,
    thanks for your answer!
    Sorry for my bad description . I talked about the backside of the neck. The fingerboard is rosewood and I oil them on all of my guitars, except the maple ones =)

    I know that I must seal the neck, but as I mentioned I don’t like lacquered necks. I think it will look nasty, when I make a high gloss body finish and do the same with the neck and than sand it down. Any experience to get the back of the neck black (little bit glossy) but keep the smooth feel. If not, I will use some kind of oil.
    Thanks !
    Cheers
    Dominik

  5. #5
    Mentor vh2580's Avatar
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    Hi Dominic Cool project.
    You may be able to make a less technical version of the DMM1 tailpiece by adding a cut plate behind the kit tailpiece like in this copy.
    https://colinpeckett.wixsite.com/tes...tribute-iceman
    I think the signature tailpieces were custom for his limited run.

  6. #6
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'd just stain the neck, then rub a 5 or 6 coats of one of those oils I mentioned on. Then sand it back with something between P800 to P2000 sandpaper, depending on how smooth you like it for a satin finish that will glide under your hand. Use will make it smoother and shinier. Depending on how much use it gets, you may want to add another couple of coats of oil and then sand again if you think you have worn down to the wood.

    You could use a satin polyurethane finish on the neck, but if you don't like normal poly or nitro gloss necks, then I think you'll find those oil finishes more to your taste.

  7. #7
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    In the picture on your first post, that's a long tail maestro trem that's been fitted to an Iceman. Not the greatest vibrato in the world, which is why a lot of people took the arm off and just used it as a tailpiece. I've got a short version on my Flying V, and it's fine for some Bigsby-level trem work, but not for more than maybe 1 tone up or down. Pretty stable since I glued the trem bar to the spring part.

    WD Music do a long-tail vibrola https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/hardware-p...nd-cover-p4912

    If you don't mind buying from China, you can get what may be the same unit a bit cheaper. https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32799292012.html

    I assume that Maestro only made the long-tail in one length, so it should end up in the right place if the IC-1 kit is dimensioned correctly.

  8. #8
    I always thought darons choice of guitar was odd, he plays in drop CGCFAD and even his signature guitar is 24.7 scale,

  9. #9
    I always thought darons choice of guitar was odd, he plays in drop CGCFAD and even his signature guitar is 24.7 scale,

  10. #10
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    All depends on his string choice really. I’d imagine a fairly heavy gauge and possibly a custom selection to help match string tensions (I have no idea what he actually uses).

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