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Thread: DMS-1 - mustang/duo-sonic short scale

  1. #41
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    I like the recessed plate, it's a great touch. I think the hole lines up enough that it will sort itself out as the bolts tighten up on the countersunk part of the plate. But a second opinion wouldn't hurt.

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  2. Liked by: OliSam

  3. #42
    General consensus I thought is that the screws should slide through the body without binding.
    Drill them out a tad more is my suggestion.

    cheers, Mark.

  4. #43
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OliSam View Post
    straight to pulling all the frets off, sanding down, ca glue, sand down again and finally refretting.
    For that to work you'd need to find a way to get the wax out of all the pores. I think if you find you have a nightmare problem like that and are in for a refretting then it would be better to replace the whole damn fretboard. But if you haven't got fibres coming away when you pull masking tape off the fretboard, like I had, you probably haven't a major problem.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
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  5. #44
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimC View Post
    For that to work you'd need to find a way to get the wax out of all the pores. I think if you find you have a nightmare problem like that and are in for a refretting then it would be better to replace the whole damn fretboard. But if you haven't got fibres coming away when you pull masking tape off the fretboard, like I had, you probably haven't a major problem.
    Thanks Jim. I think i agree with you on that. A
    A big exciting project like that would keep me busy for quite a while


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  6. #45
    Mentor blinddrew's Avatar
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    FWIW I made a mistake with my first build and the masking tape pulled strips out of the board. I subsequently tru-oiled it and that sealed everything in with no further problems.
    On my current build I waxed the board first and that minimised the pull out when the tape came off.

  7. #46
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Wet the body down and it is drying.
    Grain really does lift! Im quite surprised.

    I can now see the line where the two pieces were glued together.

    I suppose i now have to do another light sand to remove the lifted grain.
    Then on to a colour for the timbermate


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  8. #47
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Also im looking at these colours for the timbermate


    Ive been looking at YT videos about colouring timbermate and the guy even uses instant coffee to get a brown colour!!!!

    Has any one out there used unorthodox colouring in timbermate?

    Reason is that i like the idea of a dark brown grain fill then putting truoil over the top.


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  9. #48
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Timbermate is water-based and those particular stains are spirit-based. They won't (or shouldn't mix) mix well. You can try on a small sample but water-based stain for the Timbermate would be more suitable. Spirit stain is fine once the Timbermate is applied and dry.

  10. #49
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Timbermate is water-based and those particular stains are spirit-based. They won't (or shouldn't mix) mix well. You can try on a small sample but water-based stain for the Timbermate would be more suitable. Spirit stain is fine once the Timbermate is applied and dry.
    In the yt clip the guy used oil base colour with timbermate. ??!!
    Perhaps it is just marketing hype......
    Ill just find it and put it up here.


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  11. #50
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OliSam View Post
    In the yt clip the guy used oil base colour with timbermate. ??!!
    Perhaps it is just marketing hype......
    Ill just find it and put it up here.


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    https://youtu.be/-CQ4xZ4shiA

    What do you think of this?
    Perhaps not really true?


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