StuMac are another source of binding tools.
StuMac are another source of binding tools.
Finally got around to putting CA glue into the knot holes of the pinewood tele, and sanded them back with 180 g paper. Then stained the neck and body with FW Old Baltic stain.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
How did the stain react with the CA? Does it take up any stain or repel it?
It probably doesn't matter here if you're filling knot holes, as the CA will project (FLOABW) the colour underneath it like a finish repair using drop-filling.
That will look cool with a nice gloss.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
The stain is repelled by the CA.
Luckily all the knot holes were very dark/black in colour and will be darker than the stained areas. I had to ensure all the CA was well sanded back on the neighbouring areas so as to avoid lighter stained spots. So best to use thicker CA so as to avoid runs (Note to self!).
I was in a bit of a quandary about the order I needed to follow - either
1. fill with CA, sand, stain,
2. stain, fill with CA, sand, restain, or
3. stain, top coats, fill holes with CA, sand (But would probably get sand through!), more top coats.
Next time (or if using a darker stain, or if there are lighter knot holes) I think I would go method 2!
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
My inclination would have been option 1 also.
As for option 3, if you first scrape the CA level with a single edge razor, and then use the strip-sanding method, you can avoid sand-throughs. I've banged on about these techniques in a number of threads here![]()
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Yes, I have used this razor/strip sanding technique with my STA-1HT after I put a small dent in the back. If I look carefully I can still see the CA area as there must be slight difference in optical density of the CA compared to Tru-oil! I have to look hard though.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Lots of tru-oiling. They are starting to get a nice gloss.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Nice! I forgot about the thinline!
What's your tally system on the masking tape? Coats of Tru Oil?
I'm surprised you don't reshape your heels to transition closer to the pocket.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"