That looks killer man.
That looks killer man.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Just caught up with this build and love how your J Bass has turned out.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Any suggestions / advice on my fretboard?
wondering if i should apply the lemon oil (dunlop65) before I seal/clear the neck?
was thinking i would oil the fretboard and let dry, then mask up and start clearing the back of the neck, or does fretboard oil go on last?
does it even matter which way round?
cheers and thanks in advance
Guv and Adam
RedPine Lapsteel - March 2017
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...hlight=redpine
JB4-A - March 2018
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8006
I’d mask the board off, get you clears done and then once that’s all done, give the board a going over with the lemon oil. Give it a good coat to start with and let that soak in. The board may drink that up and you may need to re apply in spots that seem fairly dry.
Once it all seems even, wipe off your excess and give it a bit of a polish up with a dry cloth. It should feel slick and smooth under your fingers. Then string up and enjoy!!
Last edited by FrankenWashie; 14-02-2018 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Missed some words
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Hi all,
just about to begin bridge placement. is it ok to jamm neck in tight as and then bolt up to keep it stable and then mearure up bridge placment?
edit some of the poor grammer
RedPine Lapsteel - March 2017
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...hlight=redpine
JB4-A - March 2018
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8006
Hey Guvna I just replied PM. Yes bolt on neck first
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Quote Originally Posted by Guvna19
hey Woks, hope your well.
justa about to bolt on neck, and set aup bridge on JB4-A
can i safely just push neck tight ito pocket and bolt in the commemnce brige measuring?
Hey Guvna, yeah I'm all good thanks. Yeah I do that bolt on the neck first, measure the scale length and mark it with tape. Make sure you put the pickups in to try line up the poles with the strings. The bridges have ample movement so you don't have to have the bridge mm perfect but main thing is to line up the string offsets to edge of fingerboard and line up strings to poles. I love my JBA-4 it's my go to bass. Good luck buddy and keep hydrated on the job haha
thanks for reply wokka, be sure to hydrate![]()
RedPine Lapsteel - March 2017
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...hlight=redpine
JB4-A - March 2018
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8006
Wise comments from Woks.
Simple but easy to stuff up is making sure that neck is well seated on all sides in the neck pocket and that strings do in fact pass over the PUP poles as they should.
Next thing is to wind the G string bridge saddle a fair way forward so that you have a lot of room to wind the E string back towards base of Bridge plate as there is not a whole lot of intonation range available on the stock kit bridge if you choose to use a medium gauge set of strings (I speak from experience and had to buy a replacement bridge).
From inner side of nut to top of G String saddle should measure exactly 34" and then you are good to go.
Cheers, Waz
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Thanks Waz,
going for only stock stuff for now, much to learn yet
I managed to get few coats of clear on, enough to start drilling all the holes before more finish coats, so getting there
RedPine Lapsteel - March 2017
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...hlight=redpine
JB4-A - March 2018
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8006
All good mate.
Just a big 'Heads Up' on the lack of intonation range on stock kit bridge thus making the scale length measurements all the more important.
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8