12th fret center to the bridge adjusters is where you want it, I usually wind the adjusters back till they are just equally faced off with the adjuster screw then make the mark for the scale before setting the bridge. Some like to wind the adjusters further in but as long as the scale is inline with the adjusters then that is fine.
I generally use a single solder lug on a screw to ground the cavity tape.
I have thought about using something like this terminal strip to avoid making too many connections on the back a pot:
https://www.solomusicgear.com/produc...h2kLCGPEhq9wlw
My G&L came with a couple of them.
Now I usually just run a thin wire from the ground lug of the volume pot. It's good for adding grounds to the volume pot without soldering them all directly to the pot casing. An alligator clip on either side of the new connection as a heat sink keeps the other connections from melting. Not as elegant as the terminal strip, but effective.
Ok, bad news first still have the same issue bridge height, didn't take into account post height prior to fitting so I have a 9mm height at the base of the neck. Solution, have the original neck from the kit so I'm going to cut the heal end off and use it as a shim, funds have dried up for this build so I'm using what's on hand to fix this.
why don't you just get a 1 degree shim from ebay? Or 1.25 degree. They're like $5. Maybe a bit more. That should do it. You are using a TOM bridge on a tele. That'd never work in the first place. A Gibson designed piece of kit for angle-necked guitars on a Fender guitar that was designed with a straight neck. It's like dog mating with a turtle.Originally Posted by Pendragon
Have already tried this, it reduced the height by 2mm leaving a good 7mm. The issue is with the neck pocket, it had been matched to the provided neck and I sanded down the baritone neck to suit the angle. I have already cut the piece and sanding it down to suit the height but my next problem is the screw length, through the body and shim piece they are barely coming through, at 45mm length I'll have to resort to standard wood screws for fitting, another trip to Bunnings.
these bridges are made for 4 degrees neck angle. So add more shims.
or just give it up and get a mustang bridge. They were specifically designed by Fender for trem fitted Fender guitars.
Sounds like you may need to revisit Simon B's post #33.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post226163
I would think that cutting a shim from the original neck will be quite difficult! I would use hard plastic like Simon suggested.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic), DMS-1 (Mustang).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Speaking of Simon...You can also make an wedge shaped shim out of veneer. Each layer of veneer is 0.6mm. Figure out how tall it needs to be at bridge-ward screws and then taper until you get to the nut-ward screws. I found it hard to figure out the exact angle I needed, and this let me experiment with different angles without breaking the bank.
Years ago when Simon suggested one of the MANY uses of veneer in woodwork and luthiery, I bought a 1x2 foot piece. I have used it many many times since spending about $5 on it, and still have most of it. This is one of them ;-)
I would need 16 layers of this just to break even, a solid block is more desirable.
I was thinking that you could use the veneer to make a wedge. You wouldn't need the bridge end to be as high with a wedge as you would with a platform...assuming that I am picturing this right in my head, which I am not at all sure I am doing. If you need the strings to be 9mm higher at the bridge that is too much for a wedge. You'd need an angle of 5 degrees or more if I am doing the math right.
If you have created a piece out of maple that solves the problem your way is best! When you get a chance, maybe you could send a pic. I'd be curious to see how it looks. I sometimes feel that my builds have been a series of problem solving events. It seems to happen most when you are building something that is not exactly like a Fender or Gibson like yours. The payoff is that it will be truly unique when you're done.
We don't have Bunnings here, but we have big box stores that sell hardware. I have learned the hard way not to use anything but high quality stainless steel screws, even if I have to order them. I generally toss out the kit screws for something better....since you are changing the screws out anyway.
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