DTL-1SB First build

[DeanCraig]

Thanks Simon and McCreed

The TO feels dry now. I was not so wet that it would come off on paper or leave finger prints. Also as Simon mention humidity - I am in Sydney and its been dripping here last week.

I was not planning on sanding the fret board but have noticed a bit of dust on it. What would you suggest please - light sand? steel wool? metho wipedown?

Thanks

[McCreed]

I was not planning on sanding the fret board but have noticed a bit of dust on it. What would you suggest please - light sand? steel wool? metho wipedown?

I will strongly recommend NOT using steel wool.
For this kind of work I use synthetic sanding pads such as Bear-Tex, 3M Scotchbrite or similar. These are sometimes referred to as "synthetic steel wool".
The problem with real steel wool is it sheds tiny metal fibres. They will get into the finish and make your life miserable. And, if you have pickups anywhere near the area, the particles will get stuck to the pole pieces like s**t to a blanket.

[DeanCraig]

Thanks McCreed!

[DeanCraig]

The project is progressing - up to 10 coats of TO on body and neck/fretboard already

1. I have kept the binding quite clean but it still has some TO on it. I assume it needs to be scrapped of as it does not stick well to the binding?
2. Once scrapped should a do a light sand on binding to clean it up?
   

Appreciate your thoughts thanks.

[McCreed]

The project is progressing - up to 10 coats of TO on body and neck/fretboard already

1. I have kept the binding quite clean but it still has some TO on it. I assume it needs to be scrapped of as it does not stick well to the binding?
2. Once scrapped should a do a light sand on binding to clean it up?

Typically the top coat is applied over the binding. The slight amber tint of Tru Oil is more noticeable on white binding, but I'm reasonably confident it would not be with black.
Binding is only scraped (typically) if a colour coat of paint or stain has been applied over it. Revealing the colour of the binding, then clear coated.

EDIT: Sorry I said "top coat over the finish" - I meant binding! Have corrected now... Hopefully you understood what I meant .

[DeanCraig]

Thanks McCreed

[DeanCraig]

Just recieved a fret leveling beam, fret file and notched straigh edge.

I have placed the straight edge on the fret board and there is a gap at the neck or bridge ends.

1. As I understand it I need to tighten the truss rod clockwise as per image below to reduce the relief before I level and dress the frets?
2. Would you recomend doing this with neck on the body?
3. I have seen videos where they state do not tighten more than 1/4 turn - is this correct with a brand new kit vs an already set up guitar?
4. I assume also I need it as flat as possible before I level the frets - ie zero gap and middle or ends?

TIA

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Dean,

1. If the straight edge shows a gaps at the ends of the neck (ie that neck is convex) you want to adjust the truss rod in the MORE direction of the diagram (to produce more forward bow).
2. The neck does not need to be on the body.
3. I have heard this "no more than 1/4 turn" rule before (I assume for any neck) as it gives time for the wood to adjust (reducing the chance of cracking the wood on the neck or fretboard).
4. Yes - a flat as possible fretboard and then level the frets.

Hopefully others will agree with this.

[DeanCraig]

Well its shielding time.

I have added copper shieding tape to the control pannel and neck pickup, both pickup cavities and the bridge pickup. Unfortunatly I just ran out of tape so have not done the control cavity yet. The total left over is sitting on the top so well short it seems:

I know I am missing something here though but can I confirm:

1. Do I run a strip of copper under the pickguard from the neck pickup shielding to the control pannel cavity shielding tape once I have more tape?
2. One of the wires is meant to come back to the underside of the bridge right?
3. I assume based on video research that the control cavity also needs to be shielded?
4. Should I sheild the jack cavity?

Thanks in advance!

[McCreed]

Well its shielding time.

I have added copper shieding tape to the control pannel and neck pickup, both pickup cavities and the bridge pickup. Unfortunately I just ran out of tape so have not done the control cavity yet. The total left over is sitting on the top so well short it seems:

I know I am missing something here though but can I confirm:

1. Do I run a strip of copper under the pickguard from the neck pickup shielding to the control pannel cavity shielding tape once I have more tape?
2. One of the wires is meant to come back to the underside of the bridge right?
3. I assume based on video research that the control cavity also needs to be shielded?
4. Should I sheild the jack cavity?

Thanks in advance!

1. You can run copper tape, or run a wire through the pickup lead holes (if they're big enough) and solder to the shielding within the cavities. If you opt for more copper tape, I would run one strip from the neck pickup cavity to the bridge pickup cavity; and then a strip from teh bridge pickup cavity to the control cavity.

2. Yes, typically a wire from the back of a pot where you have your common grounds consolidated, then passed through the small hole drilled through the top into the cavity. It's best to strip a good cm of insulation off the wire, and splay the strands out (like a fan) so they lay as flat as possible under the bridge plate, so it too seats nice and flat.

3. Yes.

4. You can, but they be tricky to avoid shorting against the jack's positive contact if there's not a lot of room.
I personally don't do them and have had good shielding results anyway.

FWIW, you didn't need to put copper tape on the bottom of the bridge plate. It's steel and already conductive with the shielding tape.