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Thread: RC-4 "The Cole"...

  1. #41
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    wow Arzi thats looks sweet as. So by the looks that red flame won't be covered
    I just went back and saw the control cover and pup surrounds look fantastic well done
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  2. #42
    Member Arzi's Avatar
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    Thanks Wokka!

    A lot of work to be done and learning as I go. Next time will do something differently.

    Yes I'm gonna leave that flaming on there. First I thought that I would sand some of the black areas to be more gray but then I saw how the flaming sucked the black color and decided to go as black as possible. Still when light hits the top it reflects shades of gray - I think this will become stronger when I add more TO layers. Maybe I should change the guitar's name to Fifty shades of grey...

    The scratchplates still have the protective plastic on them so they are actually darker than in the pictures.

    Also at fist I was gonna use more red on the center but if the staining went sideways it would have been a lot of work to go over the whole top again sanding all of the color off.

    Maybe the layer will be thick enough in a couple of weeks for polishing. No need to rush at this point.

    Arzi

  3. #43
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    with no grain filler it will take quite a few layers of TO to get a flat surface, but you can do it

  4. #44
    Member Arzi's Avatar
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    Hi Stan

    When I first started I got my mind set for 20-50 layers - everything in between so I'm ready for it. I knew that it would not be easy. Next time I'll be wiser. But as you all know it's hard when you can't move to the next stage in the build. The good part is that I can do this at home if necessary and don't need to use any power tools.

    Tomorrow we'll be heading back home for a week and then back to the kid's grandparents. Propably won't be able to finish this build this month but putting the pieces in place can be done at home or at work in the future. After the TO job the rest will be quicker.

    Arzi

  5. #45
    Mentor vh2580's Avatar
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    Arzi colour looks awesome. One way to increase your TO filling is to alternate the wipe direction.I always used to wipe the one way along the grain, but recently have been alternating between with and across using heavier coats on the across and also "wooling" across the grain to level the TO a bit quicker.
    Tony

  6. #46
    Member Arzi's Avatar
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    Hi Tony

    Thanks for the tip about wiping across the grain. Thought about that at some point and it might just do the trick. Will try that. The last time I wooled I did it across the grain. Took 2 layers to fill the scratches made but it's logical not to wipe the poors clean by going with the grain all the time. In stead the oil should fill the gaps and stay there and this could be done by wiping across once in a while at least in the beginning.

    Arzi

  7. #47
    Mentor vh2580's Avatar
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    Arzi, It may not help now but after watching a few guys on youtube doing gunstocks with tru oil, the first few coats I have been doing with my fingers and rubbing circularly until it start getting really tacky and then putting a little more on the fingers and continue rubbing until drying. Once dry I give a quick rub back with 0000 and then do again. Seems to be working especially with maple caps which always have divots and cutting tears.
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    Tony

  8. #48
    Looking awesome Arzi! The red highlights look sweet as

  9. #49
    Member Arzi's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for tips and nice words. Tried to make TO tackier with my fingers and then wiping across the grain with a rubber spackle tool (what's it called again...). Spooked a bit when it got tacky - tried this after maybe the fifth coat. Wooled and continued with the grain. Should have done it in the first place a couple of times. Well - you live and you learn...

    Arzi

  10. #50
    Member Arzi's Avatar
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    Hi

    A bit of an update...

    I have put on 20 coats of TO on the top and it's not levelling out the way I want to. There seems to be a lot of crap ( dust particles, tiny pieces of thread etc) on the surface that have been stuck between the layers. I don't know how clean the rags should have been for I've used pieces of old sheets and T-shirts that I did not see any lints or similar on but anyway...

    I decided to try wet sanding with TO tomorrow using 1000grit or 1200 grit paper. Doing this carefully just to see if I can at least get the crap away from the surface to level it a bit. If it works, I'll put a couple of coats on and then continue oiling the sides and back - this time with the helpful tips from Tony and other members. I'll let the top dry for a week and then maybe try wet sanding it with soapy water and 2000 grit if I have the courage to do it.

    Or would it be better to lay more coats before wet sanding with water? I saw a video on youtube where a guy wet sanded with 800 and TO after 10 coats and then applied 10 more and continued with water and 1200 + 2000 grit. Then moved to final polishing with 3M products. This was to achieve a high gloss level surface on ash body. I have no previous experience on what kind of sanding 10 coats or 20 coats can take before going thru and doing damage.

    Damn this is frustrating and exciting at the same time...

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