Originally Posted by Simon Barden
"Cause I was still in lala-land".....um.....er.....that won't work,...will it?.....*thinks really really hard while scratching head*....eh....ah...I can't tell.....ah what the hey, another one for the "too hard" basket.....hahahaha......but I must finish it someday....lol.
badah boom tish!
Thats a good idea about the app Simon too. I usually just use the multimeter and then label them so i don't forget.
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Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
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Current Build #8 - JBA-4
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I'd been wondering how someone with colour blindness would handle resistor values. Now I know!
I usually order my resistors in lots of 10 or more, so they come on paper strips or in little bags. I label the strips / bags and leave them all together, then order the bags into a plastic tray by the values, so all the 10k-99k are together, 100k-999k are together, etc. That makes it easier to find things. If I want a certain value resistor I know which tray compartment to look in, and pull out the bag with the value... sometimes I'll do a quick double check before soldering it in, but for the most part I trust my filing system.
The way I handle resistor values is really simple, I just use my digital multimeter to measure them before I solder them in, also, using a X10 magnifier helps too.
Hey Andy40, if you're having any trouble with any of your pedal build projects feel free to pm me whenever you like and I'll be only too happy to help you out as much as I can mate.
I want to bread board it before I populate the PCB.
3rd re-build on the breadboard from scratch and its still not working, starting to wonder whether the circuit isn't good.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Hey Andy,
I've eyeballed the schematic that you posted, and it looks ok at a glance.
If possible, post a pic of the breadboard you've populated, someone might spot something. Also, do you have an audio probe that you can use to follow the signal through the schematic, that might pinpoint the issue. Eg check you have signal after r2, then c1, then pin 3 of the IC, then pin 2, etc, and follow the path along until you find where you have no signal.
Also check you have 0v on pin 8, and around 9v on pin 1, using your multimeter.
Last edited by mjg; 29-04-2017 at 04:21 PM.
Fourth time lucky....
would you believe?
Thank the electronic gods...i needed a win.
Sounds pretty good, my only complaint is that it totally craps out if the gain is turned up to full. Clearly the circuit cannot handle it.
It might have something to do with my substitute parts.
First, I used a CMOS IC 4049 (Hex Buffer) instead of a CD4049UBE as the IC;
Second, I used a 1N4004 instead of a 1N5817 as the Diode.
The rest of the components are about the same.
If anyone has any ideas about how I can limit (smooth out) the gain, let me know.
Last edited by Andy40; 30-04-2017 at 06:41 AM.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Hi Andy,
The 'U' in the IC name means that it's an inverting buffer, so that might have an effect on the sound - I'm not sure. It may end up sounding the same anyway!
The diode I don't think matters - it looks like it's just there for power supply protection, so it won't change the sound.
If you want to play with the gain, try changing R3 to either 50k or 200k, see which way you need to go to make it work for you. Or try a different pot value for the gain pot. Maybe a 500k would work better for you. Experiment and see.
Last edited by mjg; 30-04-2017 at 07:33 AM.
Also... looking at your breadboard, I can't see that R5 is in the right place. It should be in parallel to C4. It might be fine, it's a bit hard to see in the photo. So feel free to ignore me on this one!
EDIT: nope, it's fine. I can now see the white wire on the white background that it hooking it up.
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