Project #5, AG #2

[XP Rider]

The neck is now pretty much finished. About 25 coats of TruOil with occasional sanding at 400, then a final light sanding at 600 and a final coat of TruOil mixed about 50/50 with turps. I am pretty happy with both the look and the feel. Need to install the TUSQ nut and the tuning machines.

The body has been curing for almost 2 weeks, so I started wet sanding. 1000, 1500, and 2000. It looks a little better with each sanding. EXCEPT - I am seeing small water damage on the back near the cover plate cutout. Did not realize I should have masked that. Is there any remedy, or am I stuck? No one in front of the guitar and me will see it. I am suspending any further work until wiser heads chime in. Thanks in advance.

[Trevor Davies]

Hi XP Rider.

What is the damage around the control cavity plate? Is it on the lip around the cavity, or will it be visible when the cover is on?
I'm not sure if masking would really help! Did you put tru-oil on the control cavity walls to seal the wood in there?

[fender3x]

Can you send a pic?

[XP Rider]

Thanks, you two. The damage was in the form of ripples radiating out, under the paint, into the body from the crontrol route, where the cover plate will go. Gratefully, it has pretty much resolved with several days drying time. Pretty nearly passes the 3-foot rule, unless hit with a very direct light. I did not realize that I neede to seal that edge, but I definitely will before I complete wet sanding.

[Trevor Davies]

I try to seal all the cavities at least once. Even the neck pocket (for bolt on necks (NOT for glue on necks)) at least once before I put on the lollypop stick.

I'm not sure if I need too! I assume that we are sealing the wood on the neck and body to reduce loss of moisture to (or from in humid areas or when wet sanding) the environment, which will then reduce shrinkage (or swelling)!

[XP Rider]

Very good advice about sealing the cavities, and something I had not thought of, other than small ones like pre-drilled screw holes. Do you just use whatever clear coat you are putting on the body as a sealer? What I have experienced may be unique to a cover plate that has a little ridge, where the cover will sit and be flush with the surface. Water may be able to sit on that little shelf and soak in before you dry it off.

[Trevor Davies]

Very good advice about sealing the cavities, and something I had not thought of, other than small ones like pre-drilled screw holes. Do you just use whatever clear coat you are putting on the body as a sealer? ....

Yes, I use the same clear coat material in the cavities (to avoid any reactions between different finishes). I would not give the cavities the same number of coats as the body, just enough to seal the wood. FWIW, I also try to stain (or spray solid colours) around the lip of a cavity and neck pocket to ensure the stain colour only is visible in any small gaps.

[XP Rider]

There are always a few new tips and suggestions to improve the project. Thanks. An old cowboy once told me, "You never learn out."

Well I thought the back plate fit when I did the mock build, but yesterday it did not. After much sanding at P60 grit, I still wasn't making much progress in the sharp curve at the bottom. I got desparate or foolhardy, and took the Dremel to it. I managed to get away without the big gouge in the back that I expected. If it is too tight again after a little paint and sealer, I think I will shave the edges of the plate this time. I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[Rabbit]

XP Rider: You might find files an rasps a good intermediate between sand paper and a dremel for sneaking up to where you need to get things with a bit more control.

[Trevor Davies]

XP Rider: You might find files an rasps a good intermediate between sand paper and a dremel for sneaking up to where you need to get things with a bit more control.

+1 for this. I also have found that furniture scrapers are good to remove material from plastic pickguards and covers.