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Thread: First Ever Build - SV1

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  1. #1
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_novice View Post
    I know right! Had some awesome guitar riffs come out of the 90's too.

    I sanded back the body today, cleaned up some runs and re-sprayed 3 coats (20min intervals). Came out really good. Hoping one last set of 3 will be enough. Still have a few small dents, most i'm ok with but there is one one the front that is annoying. Anyway still looks pretty awesome.

    I also sanded back the primer on the headstock front and respired more primer as i wasn't happy with the finish, but has come up a lot better now. Ready for white colour spray next time the weather is kind.

    Any ideas on the neck finish?? I was thinking of using Teak Oil??
    Teak Oil or Danish Oil will work okay, you can also use poly or dingotone neck finish, I’ve had good results with that.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  2. #2
    Mmm....after a little reading I might try Tru Oil.

  3. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_novice View Post
    Mmm....after a little reading I might try Tru Oil.
    Yep, that will work just hold in mind it has a yellowing effect as it ages. I've not used it, but it is a "Go To" for a lot of the guys here on the forum.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  4. #4

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I'm the same as Frankie with using lemon oil.
    Any particular brand?

  6. #6
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I use the Jim Dunlop 65 stuff.

    It basically helps stop the board from drying out too much and shrinking, which can leave the fret ends poking out or the frets becoming loose. It's also not a bad fretboard cleaner. new boards always seem very dry, so they can normally absorb several applications. Once the board stops taking up the oil, wipe off the excess (you don't want an oily feeling board) and you're done. Worth applying again every 6 months or so in a hot and mainly dry climate. Maybe every year in a more temperate climate like the UK.

  7. #7
    Ok, finally finished the colour on the body and now just have a final coat of colour to do in the headstock. Time to start thinking of the clear coat and how to tackle my first wet sand!

    Still thinking through adding a decal and the best way to do that. Once I get all of that sorted I can think about the tru oil for the neck.

    Slowly does it but really happy with the results so far.
    Last edited by a_novice; 16-01-2019 at 11:02 AM.

  8. #8
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_novice View Post
    Ok, finally finished the colour on the body and now just have a final coat of colour to do in the headstock. Time to start thinking of the clear coat and how to tackle my first wet sand!

    Still thinking through adding a decal and the best way to do that, either an Ibanez logo or my own. Once I get all of that sorted I can think about the tru oil for the neck.

    Slowly does it but really happy with the results so far.
    Don't do proprietary logos, it will mean your build is ineligible for GOTM, it may also result in any photos of your headstock being pulled as it is potentially Copyright Infringement.

    You can design a simple logo in Inkscape or Adobe and then get that printed for you by a service, or buy some inkjet or laser jet waterslide decal paper and print it off at home to apply to the guitar.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  9. #9
    Yeah just realised so edited my post. Was looking at the paper to print my own design and hoping the acrylic clear SCA spray doesn’t eat it. Will be hard to design something as simple and cool as the Ibanez tick.

  10. #10
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_novice View Post
    Yeah just realised so edited my post. Was looking at the paper to print my own design and hoping the acrylic clear SCA spray doesn’t eat it. Will be hard to design something as simple and cool as the Ibanez tick.
    It can be a bit of a challenge.

    If you are going to use Inkjet waterslides, you should be okay with an acrylic, but you need to spray a couple of coats over the decal before you soak it, else it will dissolve or bleed in the water. You should have no similar issues with the laser though.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


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