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Thread: FrankeWashie's EXA 1 customised kit

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  1. #1
    Overlord of Music gavinturner's Avatar
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    Looking great! You've really jumped in at the deep end here but it seems to be paying off big time. Can't wait to see that beautiful neck joint at the end of all this. Following with interest!

    cheers,
    Gav.
    --
    Build #01: BC-1
    Build #02: ST-1
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  2. #2
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinturner View Post
    Looking great! You've really jumped in at the deep end here but it seems to be paying off big time. Can't wait to see that beautiful neck joint at the end of all this. Following with interest!

    cheers,
    Gav.
    The photos above are just rough shaping Gav, (I've not even sanded past P180 yet) I'll post some better ones once I have had a chance to sand back and clean it all up, but I think you get the idea. Thoughts?

  3. #3
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Wow, neck joint looks pretty smooth in 2nd shot and side on shows a pretty damn fine effort too.

    If you go transparent black would you do the same on the back to the neck too? If so you may need a stronger tint on the maple compared to the Ash as it is already many shades darker.

    Currently experimenting with various things for my next couple of builds, one of which is an Ash J Bass which I hope to get transparent Cherry Red. Will be using Ebony Timbermate to grain fill and thus highlight the grain and at this stage leaning towards fountain pen ink or even humble Red food colouring. Fountain pen ink comes in Black too and could be a cheaper option and easier to work with than ink jet ink which I will be using on the other build.

  4. #4
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    The intent would be to do the whole thing Waz, I have this idea in mind for a wraith/spectre theme to it. Plenty of time though, I still have much sanding to do!

    Let me know how you go with the ebony timber mate, i've never used the stuff before, but I'm keen to try it out. Would be good to be able to draw on your experiences with it.

  5. #5
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    That will be on build # 4 which I might not start for a few weeks yet.

    If you are going to stain back of the maple neck suggest you stop after 240 grit to allow for some stain to soak in. Once you build up layers of finish it is not hard to get a smoother surface later on rather than go harder with higher grits from the outset.

  6. #6
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Well, the clamps are off!Click image for larger version. 

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    It looks rough i'll admit, but given this is a first build, I can accept that. There are some quirks to it, but I don't see them being insurmountable. After some careful scraper/Rasp/file/sand work, I've ended up with this.

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  7. #7
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Overall, what it has done is raised a dilemma. The intent was to do a total blackout on it, now I am not so sure and here's why..
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    So, what do folks think? I said in a previous post that the wee bit of neck pocket insert showing would "Sh*t me up the wall" but i have found i'm okay with it. To a degree i'm a little proud that it all worked.

    If I don't go a solid colour, then I am considering a transparent black wash with some serious high gloss finish across body neck and headstock, opinions?

  8. #8
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Thanks for that Waz, I need to stop and ponder which way to go before I do much more. I've roughed out a 240 sand already there is some scratch clean up that I will focus on first, then look to do a fill coat.

  9. #9
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Smart move.

  10. #10
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Okay so a bit of a break in progress, mostly due to sanding, sanding and some more sanding. Using some of the tips provided on the forum I've, gone over the edges of the body and finessed out all of the deeper machine scratches, many thanks to posts by Maddog and Weirdbits on other threads for some technique and method tips. The only meaningful thing achieved (other than sanding) was to cut and shape the fillets to take up the gap under the fret board left from cutting the neck tenon.
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    as you can see there are some little fills needed at the end of the neck, mainly due to shaping and removal of scratches. A quick level off once the glue is dry and we will be ready to get the fretboard back onto this thing!

    A question on the use of Timber mate, if i am going to go with a black stain like DT Black stump, do i need to find the darkest colour of timber mate possible? Can i go with Jarrah or walnut instead of Ebony? reason i ask is that ebony seems to be in short supply at the moment.

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