Limewash on basswood

[EsquireEsque]

Here's my rather meagre build diary.

I had forgotten the tribulations of that build...

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=4409

Thanks.

If I follwo it correctly:

Your guitar body was basswood (which from memory is rather "white")
Stained it with walnut stain.
put a clear coat of something on top (I'm assuming some kind of topcoat - like varnish?)
Then put (many layers of) Liming white (and varnish)

I cannot make out the pictures really well but it seems to be considerably whitened but with some of the grain showing through.

At the time you mentioned you were happy with the result - do you still have the guitar and do you still think it a good finish?


I am working on the principle that the liming white would go on bare wood easier ( so perhaps need a few less coats).

What I'm working with is a pitbull neck (which as you know is maple - very pale) and douglas fir (oregon or orange pine) which has a pronounced grain and some colour - however when you put Danish oil on them... the maple goes a yellow and the douglas fir goes an orangy/yellowy/brownish colour that really doesn't go with the yellowed maple.

So I'm thinking of using the Liming white the douglas fir (if it gives a good result) and giving the neck a "roasted maple" colour.

[Rabbitz]

Geez, I can't believe that was 10 years ago!

IIRC the process was to sand the body to the required smoothness.

The theory behind the grain "popping" with the stain is that the grain is made up of differing hardness of wood material. The stain is absorbed differently into the various layers within the grain. The stain penetrates deeper into the softer material. Thus once the stain is applied, you gently sand the surface, which removes the shallower stain, leaving the accentuated deeper stain.

After that you can apply the light coats of limewash - the darker popped grain will still be slightly visible, giving the effect.

Finally the finishing coats of clear to harden the surface and make it tougher to damage.

I hope that makes sense.

Rabz

[EsquireEsque]

Geez, I can't believe that was 10 years ago!

IIRC the process was to sand the body to the required smoothness.

The theory behind the grain "popping" with the stain is that the grain is made up of differing hardness of wood material. The stain is absorbed differently into the various layers within the grain. The stain penetrates deeper into the softer material. Thus once the stain is applied, you gently sand the surface, which removes the shallower stain, leaving the accentuated deeper stain.

After that you can apply the light coats of limewash - the darker popped grain will still be slightly visible, giving the effect.

Finally the finishing coats of clear to harden the surface and make it tougher to damage.

I hope that makes sense.

Rabz

Yes - that would be the case with Basswood.

Douglas fir has a rather pronounced grain so I'd not need a stain before the Liming white.
It does have a bit more natural colour too.

When I came across your thread here - given that you used the same product I was thinking of (F&W Liming white) I thought to get your opinion of the product and it's results... too many "review" online are simply adverts. Good to come across an actual user.

I see you used the "Liming white with varnish" with some Cobot's water based finish.

Most importantly - if you look at the guitar now - do you still think it's a good product/finish?
Is there a chance of a photo of the finished guitar (10 years later....)?

[Rabbitz]

The Rabbitzcaster 10 years on...

[EsquireEsque]

Working on a "tan" by the pool?

Is it a trick of the light or has the finish "softened" a bit - Not quite a white as it was....