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Thread: SG-1L "Celeste"

  1. #21
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    Dev that colour is sensational!

    As for technique, if your using a rattle can, keep it around 15-20cm away from your guitar and have the can moving before you start actually spraying, this will hopefully eliminate most of your runs. If an area looks really wel, stay away from it, stop painting if you have to, if you paint on a wet spot, you chances of a run increase. Another thing is that you can do a coat every hour or so. If your nozzle is spraying vertically, (up and down) then spray across the guitar (left to right). Overlap each layer across the guitar only just, it'll look streaky to begin with, don't worry about it. After you do that, turn the nozzle to spray horizontally, then spray up and down the guitar,again just overlapping it. if you change that nozzle every time you do a coat on it, it will get rid of that streaky effect and it should come up pretty evenly!

    Just make sure you shake the hell out that can before you start painting again, and keep it remaining upright the entire time! 😊
    For some things, some times, it's the same time all over the world, and I think we know what time that is...

  2. Liked by: Devon

  3. #22
    Overlord of Music keloooe's Avatar
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    Sounds like good advice Kurt!

  4. #23
    Banned bargeloobs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devon View Post
    Ok,
    I think wet sanding is my new favourite thing in the world. Was pretty ecstatic how smooth it felt and didn't have to deal with all the dust getting stuck in the sand paper.
    Hey man, just one thing to be aware of when wet sanding, especially on the headstock's is to be very careful about water dripping down into the tuner holes. It doesn't take much for water to get into the unsealed grain and start expanding things. I've had it happen and it sucks.
    A great little tip from Jarrod was to get some clear coat, (or even the paint you're using) and, with a cotton bud, go round dabbing the insides of the holes to seal them. Just squirt some out of your rattle can into a jar lid or something similar.
    This way you can wet sand to your hearts content without fear of ruining your headstock, especially when all the clear coats are down and you're doing the finishing wet sand.

  5. Liked by: Devon

  6. #24
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    looking good mate. Several light coats of paint , dried in between, are always better than a few heavy ones. Acrylic paint dries from the outside in, so the top feels dry, but the inside is uncured.
    Oh, and since you love it, I'll send all my wet sanding to you...

  7. #25
    Overlord of Music gavinturner's Avatar
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    Looking great Devon!

    cheers,
    Gav.
    --
    Build #01: BC-1
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  8. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by stan View Post
    Oh, and since you love it, I'll send all my wet sanding to you...
    LoL stan, I love the result more and feeling baby smooth to the touch

  9. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by bargeloobs View Post
    Hey man, just one thing to be aware of when wet sanding, especially on the headstock's is to be very careful about water dripping down into the tuner holes. It doesn't take much for water to get into the unsealed grain and start expanding things. I've had it happen and it sucks.
    Thanks for the tip barge probably saved me a lot of headache. I dribbled as little water as i could and wiped up when i was done working on an area. Can't say I prevented 100% of water being wiped away. possibly a couple of drop may have gotten past.

    Can i ask how long it took before you started noticing it expand?
    and with the use of lacquer or paint, would wood sealer achieve the same affect?

  10. #28
    Banned bargeloobs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devon View Post
    Thanks for the tip barge probably saved me a lot of headache. I dribbled as little water as i could and wiped up when i was done working on an area. Can't say I prevented 100% of water being wiped away. possibly a couple of drop may have gotten past.

    Can i ask how long it took before you started noticing it expand?
    and with the use of lacquer or paint, would wood sealer achieve the same affect?
    If water gets into the grain it will happen almost instantly. Sealer should be fine, as long as you're not affecting the overall size of the hole too much. Just something to block the pores of the grain.

  11. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by KurtSlash123 View Post
    Dev that colour is sensational!
    Thanks all, hoping it'll look like a highly polished purple super car when it's done

  12. #30
    Ok it's been seven days since the first colour coat went on.
    Which gave me alot of time to think and I've decided I want the neck join to be seamless.
    Which means I will need to glue the neck on before I do any further painting.

    *Will have to be less "zealous" when masking the fretboard next time, the tape revealing a sharp white line between paint and fretboard
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Headstock turned out really nice. Am glad I put the effort into making it.
    One of the tuning machine overhangs a little but it's barely noticeable and can't be seen from the front.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    So, mocked up the guitar getting ready to glue the neck then stumbled across my first real challenges.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The dreaded nut to 12 th fret measurement not matching bridge to 12th fret

    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3996

    and a loose neck cavity

    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3997

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