Hey Guys,
I have been asked a few times to detail how I use Tru-Oil, so I thought I would jot down a few points.
BUT FIRSTLY I RECOMMEND YOU READ DINGOBASS' THOUGHTS ON TRU-OIL HERE:
http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=4...wtopic&t=367.6
Over the years DB has acquired a vast knowledge of all things Luthierie compared with my meager 3 months and his insights are to be ignored at your own risk.
As I said above I have the vast, accumulated knowledge of nearly 3 (yes, count them, 3) months using Tru-Oil and the best method of using the stuff is still a continually moving target for me.
What I have changed since my earlier attempts is to apply extremely thin coats. Don't be tempted to cut corners and apply a thicker coat. You have to keep asking yourself, am I wiping it on, or rubbing it off? I apply it with a small (approx 8 to 10 cm) square of cotton t-shirt material. Working the oil around a small area until it starts to get tacky. Move on to the next section and try and blend it in with long strokes with the grain.
When finished, I will hang the guitar under the house to try and avoid dust, then after about half an hour (weather permitting) I hang it on the clothes line in the sun for a few hours. I'm in Queensland don't forget, so it might take a tad longer down south.
The bottle says to re-apply every 2 hours but I tend to leave it about 3 hours. That way I can easily apply 3 coats a day. After half an hour it is usually touch dry, and a couple of hours in the sun just to make sure.
I will give it a very, very light sand with 1000 grit paper at the start of each day and if I can feel any dust or deposits on it I will give it the merest whisk with the same paper between coats. Because the coats are so thin it is important not to apply any pressure but just let the paper do the work. During any sanding process I will use White Spirit as a lubricant. It dries quickly and allows me to apply the next coat of T-O immediately.
I don't know the correct terminology but poly and nitro blend with previous coats as you apply them, T-O does not. It sits layer upon layer, and it is quite easy to sand through a layer and leave a "witness line".
Also because it does not blend it does not level out. So surface preparation is vital. Follow DB’s mantra to the letter, sand, sand, sand………….
With Lyn #4 after 20 coats it was looking OK. So I let it cure for about a week, I guess the longer the better, then I just hand buffed it up with a very fine cutting compound. I used Silvo because it is all I had on hand but I am sure there are other and better compounds around. I have no idea what’s in Silvo so I have no idea what long term affect it will have on T-O. So be warned.
You should only use water or spirit based stains with T-O because the solvents in T-O can lift an oil based stain. So I am not sure how it will go over Wudtone, as it is an oil based finish.
I don't think T-O will ever protect you guitar from the bumps and grinds of everyday life as well as poly or nitro. I guess it will sit somewhere between those two and Wudtone in terms of protection. I am not a working muso but I doubt it will stand up to the rigors of a working band unless you like the relic look.
Sorry this has been so long winded but I have tried to include everything.
Cheers
rob
p.s. I've done a quick calculation and I figure that with "Good Behavior" I could be out of the Naughty Corner by Christmas 2035!!!! 8O
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