Totally agree. I was blissfully unaware of scale length, neck radius, string spacing, nut width, pole spacing, vintage circuits blah blah blah. Now, I'm totally aware that I still have a lot to learn!Originally Posted by fender3x
Totally agree. I was blissfully unaware of scale length, neck radius, string spacing, nut width, pole spacing, vintage circuits blah blah blah. Now, I'm totally aware that I still have a lot to learn!
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Wow! Thank you for the step by step approach. Good of you to document it so carefully! This pretty much answers all the questions I was unsure about ;-)
Last installment of the bridge saga, at least for a while ;-)
I bought what I thought was a Sung-Il bridge for $23.02. It was crappy, so I complained to the seller on eBay. The seller never responded so eBay returned me the $23.02.
I have sometimes wondered how the seller got Amazon to send the package directly to me. As I was throwing out the pouch today, I discovered that there was a "gift receipt" in the pouch too. It had a URL and a message that read: "You can learn more about your gift or return it too." So I went online, and it asked me if I wanted to return the bridge and get a gift card instead. "Sure!" I shouted, to no one in particular.
It seems the seller got Amazon to ship to me by making the bridge a "gift." However, a gift from Amazon can be returned and made into a virtual "gift card."
Bought a new bridge that used the same exact specification graphic as Sung Il, but is unlabeled, so it could be anything. It cost $12.99. Reimbursement from Amazon is $12.99.
I would have been happy to pay $23 for a decent bridge. However it does give me a small amount of joy that his swindle is costing him $26 instead.
Ha ha. I cannot believe they even tried that!
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Just out to curiosity...how thin did you get this neck? I was thinking about doing it like the Warmoth standards that are .8mm at the 1st fret and .85 at the 12th. Or did you just decide to take it down by 1.5mm and go from there?
You made it look really easy, btw ;-)
That should have been .8" at fret 1 and .85" at 12 for the Warmoth standard neck.
The Highline guitar guy aims for about .85 at the 1st Fret and .95 at the 12th. I may aim that way as well.
Meanwhile I looked at my Warmoth neck, and realized that the fingerboard is almost 2mm thicker than the Warmoth. I'd like to keep at least 4-5mm under the truss rod (Highline guy's recommendation is 3/4" or 4.75mm). The neck is 22.76 at the 1st fret. Figuring 11.1 mm for the slot, plus 6mm for the fingerboard. That leaves 5.65mm under the truss rod. So I can't go down more than about 1 to 1.5 mm.
The plan was to try to match the thickness and profile of one of my store bought guitars, with the caveat being it had would have to leave at least 5mm remaining under the PBG neck’s truss rod cavity. From measurements and eyeballing it appeared I’d have ~5mm left, so I made my profile templates and went for it.
I didn’t take any final thickness measurements at the time, and it’s a little tougher to get accurate values now that it’s finished and strung so these may not be exact:
1st fret: 21.7mm (0.85”)
12th fret: 22.93mm (0.903”)
Scott.
That's interesting. If I take off 1 mm at the first fret I'd be at about the same there, but I'd need to take off about 2.3mm at the 12th to be close to that. Interesting that the tapers are different. Of course, there is no guarantee that the suppliers are the same with different PB generations of necks. I may try taking 1mm off and see how it feels.
I made a little progress. Had my first adventure carving arm and body contours. Also was my first time using a rasp and a shinto saw/rasp.
Wow what great tools these are! I had no idea. They were also very reasonably priced. Why can't nut files be priced like these?
The shinto saw did most of the work. the four-way rasp was great for finishing up. The rasp has fine and course teeth that are flat on one side and curved on the other.
Pencil-marked the material to remove which you can see pretty well. Couldn't get a good pic showing the contrast once the material had been removed, but you can kind of see.
Still rough and needs some prettying up...but you know. Kid with new tools...
Last edited by fender3x; 04-05-2024 at 07:14 AM.
Looking good. I have a medium-fine Shinto saw/rasp. They do an amazing job! A curved rasp should be on my "to get list".
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator).
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
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