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Thread: SSC-1S first build

  1. #21
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    I think I would try again! I also think the darker patches are where it has not been sanded!

    I would sand it all back using 180 g, then add more grain filler, then sand again with 180 g, then stain. (Most forum members suggest that you should not go above 180 g if you are staining (as it tends to polish the wood, which then does not absorb the stain evenly).). You may then find that the stain take up is darker (like on the edges and the rough spot). If you do not want it the darker colour you may need to dilute your stain.

    I also agree with Drashkum that it looks like the sanding was not all "with the grain" which has left some minor scratches. I tend to use a sanding block to help keep the sanding flat.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  2. #22
    My 2nd stain attempt. Much happier with it. Still one trouble spot, but think I can live with it.







    Now on to deal with the top. Was thinking of doing a blue/aqua burst on it but want to highlight psalter grain. Have been checking lots of videos out on how to do it, but most seem to dye the top with black and then sand it back to wood to highlight the grain and then re-dye it with the colour of their choice. I am afraid about doing this and accidentally sanding through the veneer top. Any advice on how to prevent going through the veneer when sanding it back or any other suggestions on how to highlight the grain?

  3. #23
    The top if it is a veneer it is 0.6mm thick but nevertheless people have tried to back stain it with black.

    You can try to do it with caution.

    1. Use an alcohol based black dye and dilute it in such a way that it is not too black but just stains the top.
    2. Apply diluted black dye to top as fast as you can and wipe it back with alcohol /spirits to remove the excess dye
    3. It's better to restain it with black again using another coat using same method rather than using a very black dye in a single coat and repeat wiping excess dye with mineral spirits or alcohol
    4. For sanding Never sand before you dye. This is very important. You don't want to take more wood before. Just make sure there are no glue spots. Or after the first coat you can see where the dye has not taken and sand that area with 220 on a sponge alone
    5. Sand with 220 on a singe gently with no pressure at all with the grains of the wood. Each time make sure you have not passed through the veneer
    6. Wipe it with alcohol to remove extra dust before u stain in colour



    This was mine when I did thin black stain. I obviously did a few mistakes. I wish I had gone much darker black at first go for the grain to pop better.


    If u are going to do a darker coloured dye and then a light colour dye on top it's better to skip black and use the darker dye as base stain

    Good luck


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    Last edited by Drashkum; 09-10-2023 at 05:30 PM.

  4. #24
    Thanks @Drashkum.

    I am starting with the headstock, if it gets messed up, I can sand off the veneer and just go with a plain headstock.



    Tested the dye on a bit of scrap piece from shaping the headstock. Couldn’t find any spalted maple scraps anywhere locally.



    This is the look I am kind of copying two different versions:




  5. #25
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    @Drashkum and @ Photomead. I do not think the veneer is 6 mm thick! I think it is about 1 mm.

    Be really careful with sanding the black stain off the veneer.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    @Drashkum and @ Photomead. I do not think the veneer is 6 mm thick! I think it is about 1 mm.

    Be really careful with sanding the black stain off the veneer.
    My bad.. I meant 0.6mm thick. Thank you for pointing out. Edited it now

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  7. #27
    Should I keep sanding this back to expose more wood tones or if I sand it that far back would I be going through the veneer?



    Here is how the headstock came out….


  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by photomead View Post
    Should I keep sanding this back to expose more wood tones or if I sand it that far back would I be going through the veneer?



    Here is how the headstock came out….

    I think u can sand it slightly more. But can't say much from pictured if you will go through veneer. If you choose to do so please do it very carefully. But the sanding is very uneven. Please do the sanding with the grain of the wood and if u can try to Make it lot less blotchy

    Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk

  9. #29
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    I have exactly 0% successful experience sanding figured veneer. Every stain I have tried to do on veneer, I have managed to sand through. It is amazingly easy, and once you've done it, there is not much you can do to repair it. I don't think you'll bring out much more wood grain by sanding. Just my 2 cents. Drashkum has had pretty good results and recently so I'd listen to him... Still if it's sanded down to 220 or even 180 grit smooth, I'd be inclined to build up some clear coat before sanding further.

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