1st Build IC-1

[Simon Barden]

Dingotone does seem very variable in how long it takes to dry. It needs just the right conditions to dry quickly. To cold, or hot or humid and it can take months. As it was developed in Perth, Perth seems to have the best sort of climate for using it in, but even then it can be fickle stuff by all the accounts I've read on here.

[grahamjohnston80]

I'm on the Central Coast of NSW which has a very similar climate to Perth. Almost on opposite sides of the island. We are also going into summer so hopefully that will help with drying.

[grahamjohnston80]

Hi Folks,

Quick question about sanding.
I'm reading conflicting information about sanding grits.
The Pit-Bull guide says to start at 120-180 but not to sand beyond 220grit to leave some tooth for the finish.
The Dingotone instruction pdf says to sand to 240grit.
The Dingotone video says to go to 400grit.

Any advice is appreciated as always or is it just a case of 'see how it feels/every kit is different?

The body on my kit is mahogany with white binding and I'm finishing with Dingotone Kajirini red.

Cheers,

Graham

[McCreed]

I have not used the Dingotone products, but IMO the final grit depends on what type of finish is going to be applied.
For a stain/dye I would stop at a finer aggregate (say P 400) than if I was going to be applying a primer/paint finish (P240).

Using a stain/dye is going to raise the grain to some degree after applying to the timber. More or less dependant on whether it's water based, oil or alcohol based (water based is typically the most significant).

The raised timber fibres will need to be knocked back (lightly) with either a fine grade paper or synthetic sanding pad. I usually do it before each application of colour, or at very least before the clear coat is applied.

FWIW, Mahogany tends to be quite a porous timber and generally requires grain filling if going for a smooth high gloss finish. If not grain filled, it will require many many coats of clear top coat to achieve the same glossy result which can present its own set of problems. If you want a textured, rustic sort of look, then no problem.

[grahamjohnston80]

I have not used the Dingotone products, but IMO the final grit depends on what type of finish is going to be applied.
For a stain/dye I would stop at a finer aggregate (say P 400) than if I was going to be applying a primer/paint finish (P240).

Using a stain/dye is going to raise the grain to some degree after applying to the timber. More or less dependant on whether it's water based, oil or alcohol based (water based is typically the most significant).

The raised timber fibres will need to be knocked back (lightly) with either a fine grade paper or synthetic sanding pad. I usually do it before each application of colour, or at very least before the clear coat is applied.

FWIW, Mahogany tends to be quite a porous timber and generally requires grain filling if going for a smooth high gloss finish. If not grain filled, it will require many many coats of clear top coat to achieve the same glossy result which can present its own set of problems. If you want a textured, rustic sort of look, then no problem.

Thank you for the info and advice. I'm not too worried about a super glossy result. For the 1st build I'm keeping things as simple as possible.
Cheers,

Graham

[grahamjohnston80]

Here is the test fitting of the neck:

Looks okay to me, scale length is good (314mm measurement for a 628mm scale length), string alignment looks good.
The strings are sitting low on the frets but the bridge and saddles are sitting low (wrapped in masking tape for the purpose of the mock build), they should be raised by a few mm when the posts are inserted.

I anyone sees anything obviously wrong, please let me know before I drill the holes in the neck!!

[Simon Barden]

I can’t see anything wrong myself, looking good.

P240 grit is probably the most I’d go to for sanding before a stain. Whilst the results vary according to the wood type, grits above P240 can start to burnish the surface of some woods in patches, especially if pressed down with some force, resulting in uneven stain take-up. At this stage of the process, it’s far more important for the sanding process to get rid of a) any machining marks b) obvious coarse sanding scratch marks and c) to get the flat surfaces as flat as possible with no undulations and the curved surfaces to have an even a curve as possible.

Getting the surfaces as smooth and shiny as possible (if not going for a matt or satin finish) should be left to the later stages, once your final finish coats have been applied.

[Simon Barden]

With the black hardware, you’ll need to scratch it off in places where posts and bridge touch as it’s not conductive paint, and you won’t get the bridge and strings grounded without doing it. You’ll need to use a multimeter to check this. If you are fitting low impedance active pickups like EMGs, then you don’t need to ground the bridge and strings, but for standard passive high-impedance pickups, it will make things electrically quieter.

[grahamjohnston80]

With the black hardware, you’ll need to scratch it off in places where posts and bridge touch as it’s not conductive paint, and you won’t get the bridge and strings grounded without doing it. You’ll need to use a multimeter to check this. If you are fitting low impedance active pickups like EMGs, then you don’t need to ground the bridge and strings, but for standard passive high-impedance pickups, it will make things electrically quieter.

Hi Simon,
Thanks for the reminder about the bridge post, I had forgotten about that. I am using the stock pick-ups so this will be required.
I'll read up on the multimeter when I get to the electrics, I seem to remember seeing a guide in the forum.

[Simon Barden]

Even the cheap ones have a continuity beep setting (don't get one without it), which makes it easy to check whether there's a good ground path.