Build #10 & #11 - AG-1F x2

[m0j0]

Thanks for the tip, Simon. I'll look into that, however I don't normally bother with things like cases. I don't have enough room in my house to store all my guitars in cases and they don't leave the house very often. I've just got wall hangars scattered around the house.
But that could be important information for my friend's guitar as he may want a case for his.

Mock build is done. Everything seems to line up nice and straight. Measurements appear to be within spec. Time for some sanding to prep for staining. Exciting times.

[m0j0]

Sanding done and fixed a couple of minor dings with the old steam iron trick. Colour coats on. I've opted to not do the dark first coat / sand back, and I'm sticking to a more subtle flame. I'm thinking it will come out a bit with the intensifier and subsequent clear coats.

[Trevor Davies]

Looks good. Is that the DT Uluru red?

[m0j0]

Looks good. Is that the DT Uluru red?

It certainly is. Two coats on the body and three on the neck. The intensifier and many tru-oil coats should darken it up a little.

[m0j0]

Just found out the issue with the second kit. Apparently, the initial shipment was oversold and I only got one of them. No dramas, but Adam has kindly offered an upgrade to an AGM-3F. Seemed like too good an opportunity to pass up. I've already got the Tonerider neck and bridge upgrades that I'd originally ordered and I'm thinking that I might drop a Seymour Duncan Saturday Night Special Neck in the middle position for something different. Not sure how the Uluru Red will come out on the mahogany but I'm sure going to find out.

Meanwhile, started with the intensifier coats on the AG-1 today...

[Simon Barden]

Note that the 3-pickup SGs will need extra pots and or switches to work properly, as they come with a standard 2-pickup wiring kit (no idea why). There are 2 configuration options, three volumes one tone (which needs at least one new audio taper pot) but you can use the standard kit switch, or two volume two tone (as per the original 3-pup SG) but you need a special configuration Switchcraft lever switch to do that. But if you are fitting better pickups, then I'd replace the kit electrics anyway. Plenty of room in the SG control cavity for full-sized pots.

[m0j0]

Note that the 3-pickup SGs will need extra pots and or switches to work properly, as they come with a standard 2-pickup wiring kit (no idea why). There are 2 configuration options, three volumes one tone (which needs at least one new audio taper pot) but you can use the standard kit switch, or two volume two tone (as per the original 3-pup SG) but you need a special configuration Switchcraft lever switch to do that. But if you are fitting better pickups, then I'd replace the kit electrics anyway. Plenty of room in the SG control cavity for full-sized pots.

Thanks for the heads up. I've got plenty of time to think about that and get replacements/upgrades. Already got two other builds on the go and I just don't have the room to try doing three at a time.

[m0j0]

Been slow going on this but finally got around to the wet sanding, polishing and assembly today on the AG-1F. Not the first time I've secured the pups and bridge posts and forgot to drill the hole and run the cable for the bridge grounding. After some careful removal of the bridge post I sorted that out and finished up all the wiring. Plugged it in and it worked first time. The stain didn't turn out as dark as I was hoping but I'm not exactly unhappy with it.

Just need to put the strap buttons on but now I'm left with the dilemma of working out where to install them. I've never had an SG style guitar before and it seems the "standard" location is at the neck heel but some models have it on the back near the end of the horn to alleviate neck dive. I've seen others where the button is on the very tip of the horn, I'm guessing this is to even better counter the neck dive issue - I'm reluctant to do that because I just see that going wrong.

So, I'm after opinions. I only want to drill one hole so would like to get it right first time.

[Simon Barden]

This is my GSM-1 showing its strap button position



Possibly a smaller control rout on mine, but the neck is a chunky Gibson style one, so heavier than a C-style neck, and there's no neck-dive at all.

If you want to compare overall weight, mine weights 3.18kg all-up. If yours is substantially lighter, then the balance may well be different, but if similar or heavier, then it shouldn't be a problem. This guitar is mahogany (though quite a light variant) and the AG-1G is primarily basswood, so the body may well be lighter, but I also expect your neck to be a bit slimmer and so lighter as well.

Note that if you position the strap button on the inside curve of the top horn so that there's enough depth for a decent length screw to hold it in place, then it will be hardly any further forward than if placed on the rear.

[m0j0]

Thanks Simon. I was leaning towards that location because it looks better but what you say re: not being any further forward with a horn placement makes sense. The other one I'm half way through building is the mahogany version so I'll re-think it when I get to that one based on what I learn from this one.

P.S. I love the colour on yours.