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Thread: Joe G’s PSH-1 First Build Diary

  1. #21
    Good job on those dents
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  2. Liked by: Joe Garfield

  3. #22

  4. Liked by: Joe Garfield

  5. #23
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    Yes, much better! It’s amazing how a few little things can make such a big difference. I’ll post some pics soon of what I did.
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  6. #24
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    I have a question about filler. I thought I read that applying a grain filler before stain will reduce the amount of figuring you will see. However I noticed Andy used tinted filler in his PSH build (link below).

    I’m wondering if I should or shouldn’t use grain filler first to help hide the scratches I can’t get out. I thought clear grain filler would hide them for a nice smooth surface, but that would negate the flame effect. I also thought if I use a tinted filler it might highlight the scratches.

    What do you guys think - what would you do?

    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post160199

    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post175764
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  7. #25
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Hi Joe,

    Can you believe that I still haven't finished this kit! whats wrong with me? lol

    I was just admiring the flame on your kit then.

    I usually find that the tinted grain filler will show up scratches worse. Good job on steaming them out though.

    I know that the flame maple veneers are very thin, I actually do sand my veneers to get any scratches out, either very lightly with 240 grit or some 320 grit. just being careful though.
    Last edited by Andy40; 14-06-2020 at 08:26 AM.
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  8. Liked by: Joe Garfield

  9. #26
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    Thanks Andy. That guitar is beautiful, I hope you’re able to finish it and be happy with it. It might be my favorite guitar on the forum so far (am I allowed to say that?!)
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  10. #27
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    I don’t see much glue. I saw basically nothing with alcohol, and see this with water. I’ll address what I see, then maybe do a very dilute stain coat to detect other glue spots. Please let me know if you have a better idea or suggestion.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  11. #28
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Garfield View Post
    Thanks Andy. That guitar is beautiful, I hope you’re able to finish it and be happy with it. It might be my favorite guitar on the forum so far (am I allowed to say that?!)
    Thanks Joe. You may say that. And just for saying that here it is in its current form. I've got a bit of work to do shaping the bone nut and wiring her up. But I'll get there.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  12. Liked by: Joe Garfield

  13. #29
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    It’s really beautiful. Well Andy, I can’t just copy your guitar now, can I?!

    Maybe I will have to do something like this:

    Uh oh...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Joe Garfield; 14-06-2020 at 05:42 PM.
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  14. Liked by: Andy40

  15. #30
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    To use that tailpiece I’ll need to a) adjust the neck angle, and b) find a suitable hinge to mount it. B) is a lot more challenging than a).

    It would end up with a fairly steep neck angle but not unlike a Les Paul. I can also reduce that by lowering the wood bridge base a little.

    The guitar is obviously drilled for a wrap around bridge with 82mm post spacing. The bridge covers the holes but it would be nice to have a locating feature, though not absolutely necessary. I’m thinking a dowel to plug the hole, friction fit or just a drop of white glue, and left just below the surface so I won’t need to sand around the veneer. I can then drill a hole in the plug, and in the bottom of the bridge, for a pin or similar.

    I guess I can try without all that first and see how it goes. Real wooden bridges float, so.... I thought it would be nice to have the bridge on more of a solid top, but this guitar isn’t very hollow (top is very thick) so it’s really all for looks anyway.

    Oh and I will stain/dye the bridge. Maybe even the ebony tailpiece to see if I can match the fretboard.

    If I can’t find or make a robust hinge, none of this happens.
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

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