Good job on those dents
Good job on those dents
#001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
#002 (WL-1)
#003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
#004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
#005 (LP jr)
#006 (TL-1A)
Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
'The TGS Special'
Looking a lot better. I bet you feel a lot better about it now as well!
Yes, much better! It’s amazing how a few little things can make such a big difference. I’ll post some pics soon of what I did.
*Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.
I have a question about filler. I thought I read that applying a grain filler before stain will reduce the amount of figuring you will see. However I noticed Andy used tinted filler in his PSH build (link below).
I’m wondering if I should or shouldn’t use grain filler first to help hide the scratches I can’t get out. I thought clear grain filler would hide them for a nice smooth surface, but that would negate the flame effect. I also thought if I use a tinted filler it might highlight the scratches.
What do you guys think - what would you do?
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post160199
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post175764
*Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.
Hi Joe,
Can you believe that I still haven't finished this kit! whats wrong with me? lol
I was just admiring the flame on your kit then.
I usually find that the tinted grain filler will show up scratches worse. Good job on steaming them out though.
I know that the flame maple veneers are very thin, I actually do sand my veneers to get any scratches out, either very lightly with 240 grit or some 320 grit. just being careful though.
Last edited by Andy40; 14-06-2020 at 08:26 AM.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Thanks Andy. That guitar is beautiful, I hope you’re able to finish it and be happy with it. It might be my favorite guitar on the forum so far (am I allowed to say that?!)
*Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
To use that tailpiece I’ll need to a) adjust the neck angle, and b) find a suitable hinge to mount it. B) is a lot more challenging than a).
It would end up with a fairly steep neck angle but not unlike a Les Paul. I can also reduce that by lowering the wood bridge base a little.
The guitar is obviously drilled for a wrap around bridge with 82mm post spacing. The bridge covers the holes but it would be nice to have a locating feature, though not absolutely necessary. I’m thinking a dowel to plug the hole, friction fit or just a drop of white glue, and left just below the surface so I won’t need to sand around the veneer. I can then drill a hole in the plug, and in the bottom of the bridge, for a pin or similar.
I guess I can try without all that first and see how it goes. Real wooden bridges float, so.... I thought it would be nice to have the bridge on more of a solid top, but this guitar isn’t very hollow (top is very thick) so it’s really all for looks anyway.
Oh and I will stain/dye the bridge. Maybe even the ebony tailpiece to see if I can match the fretboard.
If I can’t find or make a robust hinge, none of this happens.
*Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.