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Thread: Lyn #15 - Solid-body Nylon Acoustic

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  1. #1
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    @Simon
    Thanks Simon, the truss rod is a bit of the belt and braces approach. It’s there if I need it, but I hope I won’t. Being pine I thought I would play it safe as it’s not the most stable of woods.

    @Gav T
    Thanks mate, no need to be jealous of my non-existent skills, just have pity on my stubborn streak.

    For measurements I just used the fret position calculator here:
    https://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html

    I don’t own a fret slotting saw as they are too expensive but I did treat myself to one of these:
    http://www.irwin.com/tools/handsaws/dovetaildetail-saw
    I guessed it had a very fine blade as its described as a pull saw. I have tried it out on some scrap wood and I think it must just do the job.

    My bro-in-law gave me some tools he no longer needs and one was a kind of mitre jig. It looks pretty sturdy and accurate so I will be giving this a go. I'll post a pic later.

    Although the fretboard is very low quality wood it is dimensionally very square so I intend to measure and cut the slots before I do any shaping. I will just be using a rule and a try-square. I will have a centre line marked on the FB so I can line it up with the centre of the neck to keep it square then, when glued, trim the overlap to bring it back to the taper of the neck.

    Being based on a classical style guitar the FB will be flat with no radius.

    @Frankie
    Thanks mate. You are correct, hopefully just like a bolt-on, with no extended neck heel.

    @Scott
    Crazy! Very apt choice of words.

    @Dave
    Thanks mate, I fully expect this build to be odd in all manner of ways.

    Thanks again for the encouragement guys.

  2. #2
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Westie07, inspiring work as usual, cool looking project.

    The reason you don't need power tools because you are a MACHINE !

    keep up the good work buddy !

    I still worry about losing power all the time and having to do work with handtools and a way to keep my beer cold !
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
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  3. #3
    Amazing!! And only with hand tools... I hope someday i will be able to do something like that!

  4. #4
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    @Kick and @koldo


    Thanks guys, but it’s really no big deal, I am just doing what everybody else is doing here, it’s just that I choose to use hand tools.


    Some people cut with a power saw I choose to cut with a hand saw, no great talent required, it’s just that I have the time to indulge myself by only using hand tools.


    @Warren


    Hey Woks, you’re the inspiration to a lot of us mate. How many guitars now? Must be getting close to 100. Talk about a machine!


    Someone just has to mention a bread-board guitar and you’ve got it half finished by the end of the weekend. I’ve been researching this build for months, and I started about 3 weeks ago and all I’ve got to show for it is a rough neck. Sheesh!!

    Thanks guys
    rob

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Rob, I forgot it was all pine. Yes, far better to have it. Hope you don't need to use it!

  6. #6
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Hi Frankie,

    I agree that a marking knife would have been better. When you are trying to get measurements correct down to fractions of a mm it is a bit difficult with a Stanley knife blade.

    Regarding depth, it would be nice to have a fret saw with a depth gauge, but as this FB will be flat it will make it a bit easier to get a constant depth. Just eyeballing the little saw it looks like I will be able to use the teeth as a rough depth gauge. I guess I'll find out soon.

    rob

  7. #7
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robin View Post
    Hi Frankie,

    I agree that a marking knife would have been better. When you are trying to get measurements correct down to fractions of a mm it is a bit difficult with a Stanley knife blade.

    Regarding depth, it would be nice to have a fret saw with a depth gauge, but as this FB will be flat it will make it a bit easier to get a constant depth. Just eyeballing the little saw it looks like I will be able to use the teeth as a rough depth gauge. I guess I'll find out soon.

    rob
    Yes, flat would be much easier! The fretting jig I built whilst doing a fair job of keeping everything square and locked down unfortunately obscures vision of the cut depth. I have a depth stop for the fretting saw that I use, but it can't be used as it would foul on my vertical squaring bar. I was contemplating re-doing that squaring arrangement but I have more important things to do like sanding. And sanding.

    How are you measuring out? I started my test with a vernier caliper, but ran out of caliper at the 5th fret. I have some at work that are sufficient to do the whole board but even second hand these are reasonably high cost.

    I've used the taped down paper template method as well but that also has pitfalls.
    Last edited by FrankenWashie; 03-03-2017 at 07:58 AM.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  8. #8
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinturner View Post
    Great info Rob - thanks for that! I guess I have no excuse to not start a 100% scratchie. Might be time to tool up!

    cheers,
    Gav.
    Go for it Gav, all you've got to lose is your sanity. Luckily I had already lost most of mine so the rest didn't take long.

    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    How are you measuring out? I started my test with a vernier caliper, but ran out of caliper at the 5th fret. I have some at work that are sufficient to do the whole board but even second hand these are reasonably high cost.

    I've used the taped down paper template method as well but that also has pitfalls.
    Hey Frankie, for measurements from the nut I just used my trusty 600mm steel rule. Getting the measurement down to 3 decimal places is for mugs. All you can do it get it as close as you can. I measured and checked several times. Whether it will be close enough, well I guess time will tell.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then to prove that I am not a total Ludite, I used my trusty "electronic measuring stick". I measured each fret from the previous one. Its a good way to get peace of mind that the fret spacing is correct. Or at least as correct as I could get it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Once I was happy that the measurements were OK I then scored the FB with the Stanley knife.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    rob

  9. #9
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robin View Post
    Hey Frankie, for measurements from the nut I just used my trusty 600mm steel rule. Getting the measurement down to 3 decimal places is for mugs. All you can do it get it as close as you can. I measured and checked several times. Whether it will be close enough, well I guess time will tell.
    rob
    Yeah i guess that is a fair call, my pedantism on that is a work related issue. I play in those tolerances and tighter all the time. Its a hazard when some of your most critical tolerances get measured using the interference of overlapping wavelengths of a monochromatic light source.
    I have yet to make some corrections to the test board, so I will see how that goes once I start fretting it. The it will be on to the Ebony board for the SV-1.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  10. #10
    Overlord of Music gavinturner's Avatar
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    Great info Rob - thanks for that! I guess I have no excuse to not start a 100% scratchie. Might be time to tool up!

    cheers,
    Gav.
    --
    Build #01: BC-1
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    Build #0A: LPA-1
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