Marze take 2 - TLA-1 Rosewood/maple neck

[Dedman]

As the fret board sits higher than the body you won't have to touch the frets, just the timber of the neck. I used sand paper, it's slower and less chance of "oops"

[dingobass]

That is a moot question indeed... To string through or not to string through...

String through will give better sustain as this setup has the effect of marrying the bridge to the body.
Normally the bridge is sitting on the body and you lose some sustain as a result.

So, I guess it is a matter of personal preference and playing style.
If you were to string through, couple that with yor neck fitting nice and firmly in the pocket you could end up with a Guitar that will sustain for ages..

I build most of my customs as neckthrough and string through.
My fave Bass sustains long enough for me to go make a coffee, smoke a ciggie or two, walk the dogs, go down town and do some shopping, come back and have a nanna nap, make another coffee........... OK.... So that might be a slight exaggeration but you get the idea

[wokkaboy]

hey Marze, well done.
Have you got another bridge that has string through holes ?

If you are up for it I think a string through will allow more sustain. I love how the 6 ferules look on the back too.

You scored a mighty fine looking body that ash grain is deluxe !

EDIT - damn SNAP DB !! I didn't read your response before I typed mine

[Marze]

...
If you are up for it I think a string through will allow more sustain. I love how the 6 ferules look on the back too.
...

OK, I'm convinced. String through it will be. Now to get some chrome ferules and make a trip to the workshop with the press drill.

[dingobass]

We have gotta stop meeting like this, Woks..... SNAP.

[wokkaboy]

good choice Marze, if it is the first string through job, worth getting some scrap wood about 40mm thick, mark up the string through holes with the bridge plate and see how the holes align and are spaced at the back. It takes practice to get it looking good.

[Marze]

Ok. For a really rough mock up ... It looks like the bridge is about 5 mm south as Wokka hinted. In the photo the bridge is sitting centred on the original hole. Strings and neck line up nicely and the saddles have been adjusted to be equidistant to the 12th fret to the nut.

So, should I move the bridge north towards the pickguard/neck by 4 or 5 mm? This will let the saddles line up as well. The top saddle is screwed all the way out as you can see.


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[wokkaboy]

Hi Marze, so you saying as the mock build is the low E string saddle is about 319mm from 12th fret ?

You really need to re-do this mock build with the bridge pup in place to be certain of the bridge location.

There is actually a small gap between bridge and pickguard on the real teles so it is up to you whether you want to move the bridge plate toward the pickguard. If you can get intonation now then it is only aesthetics.

The bridge plates have changed, so looks like it has 3 mounting screws and 6 string through holes ? They never used to have string through holes and had 4 mounting screws

[Marze]

The low E (the fat one) saddle is 325 mm from the centre of the 12th fret. the one on the right in the photo. This is the saddle that is wound right out.

Down the centre line:
Inside of neck nut to centre of 12th fret = 323 mm
Centre of 12th fret to the centre of the middle saddle = 323 mm

Should it be 319 mm?

I will have to do the mock build again tomorrow after I have widened the hole to fit the pickup. Out of time tonight.

Yes the bridge is as you describe - 3 mounting holes and 6 string through holes AND 6 holes at the back of the bridge if you don't want to go through the body.

[wokkaboy]

Edit please read my next post i have mixed up gibson and fender scale lengths !!