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Thread: First Build Multiscale SMS-6Z

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  1. #1
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Yes, the scaling is different. Both types will give you full volume or tone at 10 and no volume/full tone roll off at 0 (or 1 if it has Fender style knobs). But in-between, the result will be different.

    The A and B pot designations for log/audio taper and linear taper respectively weren’t always universal and in large parts of the world, A was linear and B log. Which didn’t matter much when pot production was in the same country as your business and you chose accordingly. But once globalisation and cheap mass-production took effect and components were sourced from all over the globe, buying some A type pots from one country and B type from another and finding them both the same type became problematic and so standardisation occurred. But there may still be some places using the old designations (or at least believing that A is linear and B is log). The manufacturer’s own internal codes for the taper types can also be quite at variance with the norm, so when buying your own pots, check the description or the manufacturer’s data sheets to be sure.

    The ear doesn’t hear volume in a linear manner, but logarithmically. So to match that, a volume pot taper needs to be logarithmic. If it’s linear, then you hear very little volume reduction to start with and then it’s all bunched up in the last few degrees of the knob turning. Log makes it a lot smoother and progressive, with more happening in the 10 down to 8 region. Both will work, and it comes down to how you use the volume control (if at all) apart from fully on/fully off mode. If you like to drop the volume just a bit, then linear will give you more control getting to 1/2 volume as that will be at the 5 position, and probably between 8.5 and 8 with a log pot (there are lots of different log curves available). But if you like to quickly nudge the volume pot with your little finger (especially on a Strat) to switch between rhythm and lead levels, then log will be your friend. The general recommendation is for log for volume, but it’s not mandatory.

    For tone, it’s more of a personal choice. Linear is the choice of some manufacturers, log for others. I prefer log as it gives more audible tone changing effect over a wider range of pot travel. With linear, most of the tone change is in the lower reaches of the pot travel, say 3 and below. With log, that’s stretched out more to say 7 and below. So linear gives you more control over very subtle tone changes, until you hit the point when it becomes very unsubtle.

    I don’t like extreme tone changes and the muddy sound you get with the tone on 0 with the standard capacitor choices, so I tend to fit 0.015uF tone caps on my guitars. Along with log pots, this gives me a much more useful tone control. But it is all down to what you prefer. It’s certainly worth trying some different cap values. They will make almost no difference with the tone control fully up, only when it’s in use.

  2. #2
    I finished my coats of black gloss and when I removed the tape, I found a part had already lifted. So there was a stain on the front of the body.
    https://i.imgur.com/KDHTP3K.jpeg

    I knew if I sanded I could go through the veneer but the alternative was to paint the whole thing which is what would also happen if I sanded through the veneer. So why not try. Some super high grit took it right off and also made me realize how much other black had snuck through. You can see it's darker near the stripe .So I pushed my luck and lightened the whole thing.
    https://i.imgur.com/SRRinBp.jpeg

    You might also notice that the tape took up some of the end of the stripe and ruined the line. I used a razor and a ruler to make a new edge and then peeled and scraped the paint off to that line.

    I did a new test assembly before gluing. It looks like things line up when the neck is against the topside of the hole and a piece of veneer fits on the bottom side to hold it perfectly. I sharpied the edges so they're black and more hidden. I don't know if I'll glue it in ahead of time. It might make it too tight. I'll try putting it on and off a few times beforehand once I disassemble again.
    https://i.imgur.com/W69dRhU.jpeg
    Back
    https://i.imgur.com/5k4P35S.jpeg

    The lack of clamps currently is because the pickups are tight enough to hold the minimal tension of the strings. Once glued on, I have to tape the fretboard and stripe and then the gloss clear coat to finally finish and move on.

  3. #3
    Current state of the guitar (neck is just placed). I need a black gloss coat on the sides and back of the body and those little cutouts on the front. Then I'll glue the neck and put a clear gloss on everything except the black stripe.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/ZZr3Ju5

    I am very tempted to try to straighten the stripe edge where it flares out, but I keep hearing "the enemy of 'good' is 'better.'"
    Last edited by MrRJAnderson; 25-08-2023 at 12:35 AM. Reason: Wrong link

  4. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You could always give it just one go. Any more and you could end up with an all-black guitar.

  5. #5
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Looking good. I cannot wait to see it pop with the clear coats.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  6. #6
    Finished my clear coats and polished the glossy surfaces. I almost just left with the clear coats but the final turtlewax coat really did give a nice hard coat that I'm less worried about scratching. So anyone else thinking of skipping, don't.
    Front
    https://i.imgur.com/U1GMpYq.jpeg
    Back
    https://i.imgur.com/m4FvxuY.jpeg
    Flare
    https://i.imgur.com/EIrhYYS.jpeg

    The wiring is also done and wasn't too much of a problem, since some of it was already done. Hardest part was just figuring out what was left to do.

    Putting in the humbuckers was a bit of a problem and I'm not sure I did them correctly. The screws were very long which would be fine for most humbuckers I've seen in videos, but the ones I received had the tabs on the bottoms. If I made pilot holes the full length of the screws, it would have gone through the back, so I started with about half the length.

    I dropped the humbuckers in to find where to drill the holes and noted the distance they'd need to be raised to get them close to the strings. I figured out the springs fit around the screws but fully compressed they'd be too long, so I guessed that the foam strips were about the right height.

    The second problem was suddenly the neck pickup hole was too small so out came the Dremel. The humbucker is still not level. Between the shallow pilot hole and tight cavity I stripped out one of the screws. I was able to get the other holes deeper and keep taking the screws out until they got to the correct depth.

    I wanted to get things setup to see if everything worked before moving on. I does so I'll drill out that screw and get a replacement.

    I set the machine heads, adjusted the truss rod and bridge height, and then started working on intonation. I noticed something off as when I was close to the octave, all the other notes were off. It was most pronounced on the thicker strings. I was able to set intonation by using the 3rd and 15th frets (G to G on the E string) and all but the open string are in tune.

    I'm guessing I need to do something with the nut. Maybe cut deeper grooves or just sand the whole thing down? I've done the former before but not the latter.

    I was still able to capo and play a bit and I like the sound even with the odd humbucker. I just need to figure out the nut issue and put on the 2 covers and I'm done!

  7. #7
    Found a video I wish I would have seen. Sharing for the next guy. I did a bunch of searches on how to mount humbuckers before I tried myself but they all had the trim rings. So I went off on my own. Here is how to actually direct mount humbuckers.

    https://youtu.be/haqIYOGSplU

    I of course found this after I tried a 2nd time to mount them myself and ended up drilling through the back to fit the screw... I was able to fill it in and other than feeling a bump I don't think anyone else will notice, but, you know, I will. I was almost convinced I could call this my actual first build instead of a trial prototype. Such is life. Upside is now I feel totally free to mess up - in minor ways. I still want to play it

    My strings came in so I filed the grooves in the nut down further while they were off and it helped the dropoff from open to 1st quite a bit. The action is still too high so I need to do some more filing.

    The amazon knobs I ordered also came in and plate covers are in place. I'll get some finished pictures up soon and once I get that nut figured out, I might make a video of how it plays (warning: I'm not very good).

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