TL-1TB Build

[Simon Barden]

If you can find some, the same wood is always best as it should expand and contract at the same rate as the body so will add minimal stress in the future. But it’s not a major problem, so some generic hardwood dowel should be fine.

Yes, the binding takes up stain (especially spirit-based stain). The surface can be scraped and cleaned, but you’ll find lots of hairline cracks on the small radius bends, and the stain here remains. It may be the binding material the kits use as Gibson etc. stain and scrape without problems.

Various methods have been used to stop this issue, and covering the binding with clear coat first (masking off the body) is probably the most effective. Masking the binding helps, but it is still prone to seep under the binding at the edges. Clear coat and then mask would be my advice. You may need to scrape or sand off the clear coat if it itself stains, but it should protect the binding underneath.

[Pendragon]

Ok so sourced basswood dowel to fill now to what's next. Sand back the entire top to fill and sand out the flaws in the body? What to use, any wood putty from bunnings or am I best to sand it flat.

Have started work on electronics, bought a upgrade kit from realparts and have found the supplied plate has too small a hole to fit the new pots, have to drill them out.

[Simon Barden]

I’d leave the existing finish on, fill the dips, then sand and add more finish over the top. I use standard fine texture wood filler for jobs like that, though there are other options like superglue if you want.

Most of the cheaper Fender-style guitars (including Squiers) are fitted with mini-pots and the cavities routed accordingly. The Tele cavity is small enough at the best of times, and hasn’t got a lot of space for additional wiring if you do more complicated switching options.

If you’ve got a Dremel or similar, then one of the small sanding drum attachments is good for enlarging cavities, and is generally safer than drilling. Put some masking tape around the cavity, mark the control plate outline and be sure to stay within that when widening the cavity.

[Pendragon]

So the staining of the body went well enough, a few minor leaks into the binding but for the most part feels like glue that im scrapping off, should have listened to @Simon Barden with sealing it before hand, lesson learned and noted for next build here are a few shots with a temporary hold.

[Pendragon]

I’d leave the existing finish on, fill the dips, then sand and add more finish over the top. I use standard fine texture wood filler for jobs like that, though there are other options like superglue if you want.

Even with the clear coat on?

[Trevor Davies]

Was the body also stained with FW Maple?

The neck does not look orange in the last pictures - it looks great. Did you restain the neck?

[Simon Barden]

Even with the clear coat on?

You can use it over clear. Using superglue to fill chips is a tried and tested method.



Or you could sand back a bit in that area, fill and then put on more clear.

[Pendragon]

Was the body also stained with FW Maple?

Yeah same stain on the body, after a week I sanded it again and are happier with the colour.

[Trevor Davies]

Yeah same stain on the body, after a week I sanded it again and are happier with the colour.

It is looking good!

That looks more like the FW maple stain I used on this build at:
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post222586

[Pendragon]

So how does my soldering skill stack up?

If it looks like I have put this on backwards, it's because I have. Volume up front, tone next and switch in the back, to me it feels more natural this way rather than the standard layout.