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Thread: First build: lefty TL-1L telecaster

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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    I was looking for that one, but couldn't find it...then realized that Lotion might want the lefty diagram. Oddly there are some wires missing on that one...hot wire from switch to v-pot, wire from v-pot to t-pot, bridge to ground...
    Found the correct one, I'm wondering now how the pickups are supposed to be mounted, as I can't figure out how deep in they need to be. I'm guessing screwing them in all the way is fine because the neck juts out about a centimeter but I want to make sure I get it right.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    I was looking for that one, but couldn't find it...then realized that Lotion might want the lefty diagram. Oddly there are some wires missing on that one...hot wire from switch to v-pot, wire from v-pot to t-pot, bridge to ground...
    There is no lefty diagram unfortunately. I usually have to turn the diagrams upside down and then it's trial and error!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    I was looking for that one, but couldn't find it...then realized that Lotion might want the lefty diagram. Oddly there are some wires missing on that one...hot wire from switch to v-pot, wire from v-pot to t-pot, bridge to ground...
    Had another look at the kit parts, those wires are already presoldered in place on the control plate. The diagram only shows the wires that need to be soldered.

  4. #4
    I'll see if i can get the photos to work. Here is the back after today's burning. It's starting to shape up.



    And here is my front drafted out, might be a little hard to see. It has the roses cascading over the side and a few feathers to tie into the wings on the back. The brambles wrap around the sides front to back. Planning to do the roses in bright red, the leaves a deep green with gold vines, and the background a dark purple sunburst.



    Currently, the design is set around a full telecaster pickguard, but i could wrap the art up over the lower arm.

  5. #5
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Looking good. The black pearloid pickguard goes well.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  6. #6
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    Looks great.
    A question for the gurus - I noticed that the design on the back covers all the back and there are no string thru holes. Is there any difference to the guitar of the strings go through the bridge (a bit like a Gibson) compared to Leo Fender's concept of stringing through the body?

  7. #7
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colin2121 View Post
    Looks great.
    A question for the gurus - I noticed that the design on the back covers all the back and there are no string thru holes. Is there any difference to the guitar of the strings go through the bridge (a bit like a Gibson) compared to Leo Fender's concept of stringing through the body?
    I do not have any string throughs, but they are meant to have a greater sustain than the top loading bridges. The string through bridges also have less saddle problems (Simon B mentions this on a post at https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post223122.)
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  8. #8
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    I do not have any string throughs, but they are meant to have a greater sustain than the top loading bridges. The string through bridges also have less saddle problems (Simon B mentions this on a post at https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post223122.)
    FWIW, I think the issue that Simon is referring to is more prevalent with Strat-style saddles. Barrel-style saddles as in a tele should not have the issue of lifting the back of the saddle, even of top-loaded. I have more experience with basses, and have both string-through and top loading bridges. I don't notice any difference in sustain. If you were making it for me, I'd want the artwork intact more than I'd want the string through ;-)

    I had a similar issue to the one that Simon describes with the low E with a top loading hard-tail strat-bridge. It was lifting the saddle enough to cause a buzz. I swapped out the cast saddles on my cheapo-bridge for a stamped saddle and the problem went away.

  9. #9
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    This is so ornate and awesome! Already an absolute work of art!

  10. #10
    Thanks for all the comments! I made some good headway on the art today- finished wood burning the outline, laid down the base color and started painting the roses!


    This is the ugly part of my process. I lay down a layer of color that is extreme, because the next step is to add translucent paint over top. I almost always look at this stage and ask "what did i do??" But it gets muted significantly after i paint over this color.



    And back:



    I also started painting the roses. And now it is starting to look like it's supposed to.



    Trying to decide if I'm done for the day, or if I want to keep painting. This is my favorite part, so it's hard to put the brush down...

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