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Thread: 3D Plasticaster Build

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  1. #1
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andybanks View Post
    This should be an interesting build to follow, please keep us updated on progress as it happens ever so slowly...

    I have heard PLA can be strengthened through "annealing" in the oven, but I also hear tolerances get thrown about when you to this.

    If in the end it doesn't work out as hoped, you can always use it as an excuse to try your hand at lost PLA casting and turn it into an aluminium body... But that might throw the budget out the door.

    Your backup plan for core strength should at least make a playable guitar, strengthening the strap points the the centre might even be possible with a long custom made steel rod or two.


    Looking forward to see how it progresses in any case
    Will do. It's a long slow process and I disconnected the light in the print enclosure to run the buffer over the Samick earlier, so it's dark in there now.

    Never heard about the annealing process. Worst case I could always use PLA+ which I've heard is better.

    I'm hoping the strap points are adequate given the fairly low weight of the build, but that's a good idea if it looks to be problematic. The outer stuff is surprisingly solid even with a 60% infill. I suspect it's thick enough and solid enough that it should be OK as long as it doesn't get too hot. The pattern on the outer body is printing at 8.5mm thick, so it's pretty decent. My DAW PC is under my desk with a set of 3mm thick brackets. A little flimsy, but still holding, so PLA isn't completely useless :P

  2. #2
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Progress shots.
    This is the bottom tail end.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The whole dinosaur/Jurassic Park thing is **long** story, Yes it will factor into my builds..

    I've attacked various ridges and other sharp bits with a file. I've done some cleanup around the logo though it needs more work. I hit it briefly with 400 grit early this morning, but I really need to hit it with something a bit coarser to clean up the layer lines. I'm not to worried about the inside, but the outside will definitely need to be smoothed out.
    Once it's ready, I'll pull the last support off and spray the inside while I still have reasonable access to do so.

  3. #3
    Member andybanks's Avatar
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    Looking promising.

    It's probably too late, bit have you thought about leaving some cavities with covers that you can fill with little sand bags old used batteries to balance the weight out if needed? The PLA should be strong enough, because you have some geometry on your side, but I worry it might flex a bit. Hopefully it won't impact the final product.

    I'm keen to see how this goes, because I might be tempted to do version 2 once i see all the tricks of the build.. I did quarter cut some gum last weekend, but it is only 600mm long so won't quite support a neck and headstock. Dang!

    I do have a much larger felled tree down the back of my property that I might needs to see if I can source a long enough piece for this sort of experimental build.

    Remember, If nobody tries anything different, nothing will ever change.

  4. #4
    Member ross.pearson's Avatar
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    Oh this gone be good. RE: rigidity, have you considered carbon fibre and epoxy wrap?

    Looking forward to seeing the updates, maybe I'll print one myself!

  5. #5
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Another couple of pieces printed this morning, so the whole lower section of the body is now printed.

    I hit the first part with the sandpaper for a while this morning to see if I could knock out some of the layer lines that were present. I don't want to go too hard on it or I risk loosing some of the texture around the gaps. I threw it in the makeshift spray booth and hit it was some paint just to see how it'll come up. Will know more once it's dried off.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
    Member andybanks's Avatar
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    That's looking pretty good. Sanding PLA can be tricky, you could hit it with a primer filler first to fill in the layer marks, and then sand the filler back, it might be easier to sand and will be less risky of burning through to the fill pattern.

  7. #7
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Probably not the worst idea. If it wasn't for this damned lock down, I'd sneak out and buy some primer. The can I'm using at the moment has primer in with the paint apparently.. One of those 2 kids driving me nuts at Bunnings 30 minutes before lockdown came into effect and me not being able to find what I actually wanted kind of purchases lol.
    I've just sanded and sprayed another piece. 2 coats seems to be enough to fill in pretty well from I can see in the garage light. I might get the other piece finished off later and see how it's actually looking in daylight.

  8. #8
    Member andybanks's Avatar
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    Lockdown does add a new level of complexity don't they. I'd probably look at Supercheap before Bunnings for something like this, it tends to be more auto body repair than home repairs sort of stuff. Can you still do click and collect?

    P.s. I get the kids thing, I don't think I've had a phone call in a month where I didn't have to stop and manage one of my kids mid sentence.

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  10. #10
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Cool cheers. I will hunt down some if I look to be running into trouble. Should be able to do click and collect, but I'm gonna have a tough time explaining why I had to drive that far across town :P
    Looks like this stuff will be useful for other projects too.

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