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Thread: Getting Started with Building Pedals

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  1. #1
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Slow and Steady Definitely Wins This Race:
    Unlike PCB builds, stripboard doesn't come with a nice printed layout on the board indicating exactly where each component goes. I always check the placement of cuts multiple times, marking the cut location with a sharpie once I am confident the placing is correct. If the cuts are wrong, the build will fail.

    After cutting the board, I mark the top-left corner with a sharpie for reference. It's easy to get the orientation confused otherwise.

    Once the cuts are made, I test continuity across the cuts with a multimeter. Sometimes, a tiny trace of copper remains which again would lead to problems. Much easier to check the cuts before adding components. Slow and steady again.

    Next I add links to the board. I measure location by counting from different directions as a cross-check. A link might start 5 across and 6 down from the top-left. Mark that hole with a sharpie. Then check it a second time, perhaps from a different direction. Going slow and triple checking the link placements helps the rest of the build go smoothly. Once you get some trusted landmarks on the board, placing the rest of the components gets much easier. Instead of counting 17 across and 9 down from the top-left, you can do things like "5 across and 1 down from the top of that link".

    Final slow and steady tip: solder just one component at a time. Before soldering, double check location. After soldering, inspect the solder joins (I use an illuminated desktop magnifier for this) before clipping the leads. You want a nice shiny joint that flows nicely onto the board. This lets me catch unintended solder bridges (across adjacent tracks) early. The other common problem is too much solder causing the solder to flow along the track and cover the next hole on the same track. Again, easier to catch and fix early (although if no component needs to use the blocked hole I tend to leave these alone).
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  2. #2
    Also, great idea for a thread! I was so overwhelmed with info when I started - good to have it accessible and all in one place.
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

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  4. Liked by: JohnH

  5. #4
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Thanks Cliff. To that list I will add:
    Jack Orman's site http://www.muzique.com/
    R G Keen's site: http://www.geofex.com/
    https://sound-au.com/. The articles page is particularly good.
    Electrosmash.

    I learnt a lot from following the Electrosmash breakdown of the Rat circuit while building the circuit on a breadboard. This sort of thing is helpful for moving beyond the assemble-by-numbers stage of pedal building. Although, to be honest, assemble-by-numbers does work, but it can be hard to diagnose issues or make decisions on parts substitutions when the circuit is a complete mystery.
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  6. #5
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Great idea for a thread, before I had money to buy new components from Dick Smith Electronics, Altronics, Tandy Electronics (remember that one?), and Jaycar, I used to rat defunct TVs for components for use in building circuits, it's surprising how many useful parts you can salvage from broken TVs, and other pieces of electronic equipment, way better than letting it go into landfill.

  7. #6
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrNomis_44 View Post
    Great idea for a thread, before I had money to buy new components from Dick Smith Electronics, Altronics, Tandy Electronics (remember that one?), and Jaycar, I used to rat defunct TVs for components for use in building circuits, it's surprising how many useful parts you can salvage from broken TVs, and other pieces of electronic equipment, way better than letting it go into landfill.
    I am about to try using a small butane torch for bulk desoldering of components. The plan is to melt a bunch of joins at once, then sharply tap the side of the board to dislodge the solder before it hardens. I don't like the tapping method on a board I need to fix because the solder can cause a bridge somewhere, but on a board that's getting stripped it might work. I hope this makes getting things like PCB mounted pots desoldered easier.
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by jugglindan View Post
    I am about to try using a small butane torch for bulk desoldering of components. The plan is to melt a bunch of joins at once, then sharply tap the side of the board to dislodge the solder before it hardens. I don't like the tapping method on a board I need to fix because the solder can cause a bridge somewhere, but on a board that's getting stripped it might work. I hope this makes getting things like PCB mounted pots desoldered easier.
    Oh oh fire! What could possibly go wrong

    Hey DC, what are those little white riser things you mounted the board in to keep the circuit off the metal?

  9. #8
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    Oh oh fire! What could possibly go wrong

    Hey DC, what are those little white riser things you mounted the board in to keep the circuit off the metal?
    That would be these.

    I don't normally use them on my own pedals, but I thought they are a good idea for something that has to go through the post. I will use a couple in the FS-808 as well. Maybe. I also have an idea involving insulation tape and a hot glue gun...
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  10. #9
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Keep your stripboard offcuts:

    They are handy for making adapters for PCB-mounted pots, allowing them to be used off the main board:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also handy for making little boards for the power indicator LED and current limiting resistor if you don't like wiring it point to point:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  11. #10
    I was wondering about this also. Can't you just solder to the pins on the PCB pots as per normal pots?

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