DMS-1 - mustang/duo-sonic short scale

[Sonic Mountain]

Holy crap. I am so seriously tempted by one of these kits.

What a great jump off point. Watching with interest.

[Simon Barden]

If only they did it with a proper dark wood board, doesn't have to be rosewood. The roasted jatoba fretboards ("Brazilian Cherry") on the G range of AG kits is very nice and smooth. I'd be happy to have one of those on this kit.

No engineered rosewood ever again for me either.

[OliSam]

So i put my glasses on and found that it isnot one piece of wood.
But it is matched so well that im still stoked.
You can see in the heel joint that it is two pieces.

The nut is now off.
This is my first engineered rosewood fret board. I see what you guys mean. It feels a little funny at first.
How to smooth it out?

Perhaps with some of this stuff?




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[JimC]

Real rosewood has the odd grain mark too, I wouldn't worry about that. My concern with the engineered rosewood is that the fibres (on mine and @Simon Barden's at least) weren't as well attached as they might be and are a bit prone to go missing. I treated mine and his with an ultra low viscosity epoxy primer, which I reckon has stabilised it well enough, but was viciously expensive because I had to buy about 100 times more than I needed. I put about 3 coats on, which certainly seemed like a mistake at the time as it looked kinda odd, see my EBS-4 build diary, but looking over my shoulder at the thing it looks fine now. I don't think wax would do the stabilisation.

[colin2121]

Just a thought - would tru-oil help to stabilise it and seal it up?

[OliSam]

Just a thought - would tru-oil help to stabilise it and seal it up?

Thanks Colin.
That was actually going to be my first choice but now ive got 3. In order of difficulty?

1. Fretboard wax
2. Tru oil
3. CA glue


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[jugglindan]

Thanks Colin.
That was actually going to be my first choice but now ive got 3. In order of difficulty?

1. Fretboard wax
2. Tru oil
3. CA glue


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Something I didn't mention is that once the CA is sanded back, it retains much of the look of unfinished rosewood. I suspect that Tru Oil may look more like a clear coated board. But I have no experience with Tru Oil, so it's just a suspicion.

[jugglindan]

I used Zap thin CA to seal my engineered rosewood board. After letting it cure I sanded back, working up to 4000 grade micromesh. I am still a little unhappy with the appearance as I have darker patches close to the frets, but the fretboard now feels as smooth as silk and the loose fibres of the engineered wood are no longer a problem. I can live with the uneven colouration as it is only noticeable in strong light. In normal light it looks a bit like wear from playing. I think that for the best results the board would be sealed without any frets.

But even though I now have a stable and playable board, I would rather have done without the whole process.

DC

[OliSam]

I used Zap thin CA to seal my engineered rosewood board. After letting it cure I sanded back, working up to 4000 grade micromesh. I am still a little unhappy with the appearance as I have darker patches close to the frets, but the fretboard now feels as smooth as silk and the loose fibres of the engineered wood are no longer a problem. I can live with the uneven colouration as it is only noticeable in strong light. In normal light it looks a bit like wear from playing. I think that for the best results the board would be sealed without any frets.

But even though I now have a stable and playable board, I would rather have done without the whole process.

DC

Thanks jugglindan. And thanks for the link. Sometimes it is hard to find this stuff in the forum even though we know there is loads of info in there!!


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[Simon Barden]

Thin CA is the easiest stabilising solution IME, but it will compromise the looks to some extent, as will any other good stabilising solution like thin epoxy. But better a slightly strange looking board than one that keeps shedding its fibres.