Esquire-esque

[fender3x]

I was thinking that the G measurements might be better due to scale length. The measurements are not vastly different.

Looks like the string action (set at the bridge) is a little high on the bass side, and about right on the treble side. It also has a bit more relief than Gibson recommends.

I don't think you need to worry about the nut until you get the buzz out with the capo on. Normally it should come when the relief and string height are properly adjusted.

Before adjusting the nut check these potential sources of rattle:

Nuts around the tuning pegs are not screwed down tightly. Fix: tighten down the nuts.

On the bass strings, the bronze wire wrapped around the steel core has a break in it somewhere. Fix: Change the strings.

These may seem unlikely but they have both happened to me.

If you still hear rattle tighten down everything else to make sure it's not a sympathetic vibration.

I also wondered if you can identify where the buzz is coming from on the fretboard. Normal string buzz results from the vibrating string making contact with the fret(s).

You've tested for a popped up fret. You've leveled... That makes me wonder the strings may be too close to the fretboard up near where the neck joins the body? The truss rod will bow the neck, but not evenly. It bows less where it bolts on...and even out a ways.

If that's where it is buzzing on yours you might try the taper trick in this video:



People generally do this to get a faster action. I generally do this at the 12th fret. He does it at the 9th as well.

Will continue to ponder in any case...

[EsquireEsque]

I can't determine where the buzz is coming from. Sometines I think it's coming from the bridge.

Would a cheap bridge cause a buzz.

Do you think cheap tuners would cause a buzz?
I did notice at one stage when I strummed a single string (and not all 6 were on) that there was a lot of rattle, which turned out to be the tuners vibrating - I assumed this would end with all the strings on and all the tuners were under tension.

Both the tuners and the bridge are "from the kit".


I'll watch the video...... Interesting, it's a "second levelling process" with the last 10 or so frets "levelled" on a very slight decline....

I do wonder though - if I simply levelled the frets badly (using a shorter beam ...... or if the neck wasn't absolutely straight). Wouldn't be the first mistake I have to learn from.

I've just re-read youpost, in particular:
"I was thinking that the G measurements might be better due to scale length. The measurements are not vastly different"

Do you mean the "G string" (third string)?

capo'd at the first and fretted on the 17th frets - I'm afraid I just cannot see the bottom of the G string. I can make out that the top is under 1mm..
Capo'd at the first fret - I'd say the gap at the 12th is about 2 mm.

[Trevor Davies]

Some saddles can cause a buzz - but the barrel saddles shouldn't as they have a string forcing the saddle down at each screw in post.

I have only had tuners vibrate when the nut has come loose!

[EsquireEsque]

Some saddles can cause a buzz - but the barrel saddles shouldn't as they have a string forcing the saddle down at each screw in post.

I have only had tuners vibrate when the nut has come loose!

I noticed that the tuners were vibrating when they were not strung. took a while to figure out where the "fuzzy" sound was coming from. But if the tuner is not strung, the "post" can move a bit.

My youngest daughter thinks that most of the buzz comes from the bridge and a fainter "tinnier" buzz from the first fret area....

[fender3x]

My youngest daughter thinks that most of the buzz comes from the bridge and a fainter "tinnier" buzz from the first fret area....

Good thinking choosing the youngest daughter. No doubt the one with the best hearing ;-)

The faint, thin buzz may be from the capo. If you can tighten it down a bit...

[EsquireEsque]

If:
capo'd at the first and fretted on the 17th frets - I'm going to guesstimate that the bottom of the string is about 0.5 mm.
Capo'd at the first fret - I'd say the gap at the 12th is about 2.5 mm for the low E

To illustrate that string a bit further, if Capo'd at the first fret then at the 21st fret the gap between the fret and the bottom of the E string is 3 mm.

.......and to reduce the buzz (to only when you really try to get it) I'd have to raise the "E" and "A" saddle a bit more.

[fender3x]

I think TD's right about the saddle. But do check all the screws holding the bridge down. Anything that is not tightened down will rattle. I once thought that my bass had a rattle in the low E...which turned out to the the snare on my son's drum kit that was rattling.

Couple of things to keep in mind: Always do your buzz tests with ALL strings at at tension and in tune.

Can tuners buzz? Absolutely! I was having a terrible time getting the buzz out of my acoustic, until Simon Barden on this forum recommended that I tighten the tuner nuts. Voila! (as my Quebecois grandmother used to say). Almost all of the buzz went away. Under tension the geared part should be quiet and the post should not move. If the post will wiggle under tension that could be a problem. I'd recommend tightening anything that can be tightened. I use a "three finger" rule. Tighten everything until it stops using my thumb and two fingers on the screwdriver. EVERYTHING on the tuner: knob, bottom screws, and top nut.

screw down everything that can be screwed down everywhere on the guitar including the pickguard and pickups if they are on.

Eyeball the neck from the heel looking up the fretboard to see if there is a twist. If not...

Redo the fret leveling with a longer stick. I don't think this is the issue, but it's worth a try.

Use a fresh set of strings. They don't have to be good, just "intact".

Redo the first three steps in TRAIN:

Tune
Relief (get it flat then reset the truss rod--with capo on fret 1)
Action (set the action at the bridge--with capo on fret 1)

If you still have a buzz at that point we may need to get out the auto mechanic's stethoscope to figure out where it's coming from!

[EsquireEsque]

I may have found it....... utilising the eyesight of someone over 45 years younger than me this time .......

I had a thought that maybe the neck socket or the neck heel is not on "dead flat". As it turns out, my youngest looked at the measurements for me, and she thinks the bottom of the fretboard is a tiniest bit higher from the body at the 22nd fret than it is at the 18th/17th fret.

I imagine that this would make enough of a difference over the length of the neck.... at least I'd think it's worth having a look at

[fender3x]

Yes, that's possible. The neck bows under tension, and it's not uncommon for the string to be a little closer at the 22nd than the 17th. I checked one of mine, and if I fret at the 17th and 21st there is a teeny bit fo daylight under the string. Less than my thinnest feeler gauge...maybe just enough for a thin piece of paper.

If it is causing the buzz, the tape on the 12th or 9th, and then doing a bit more leveling may help

Sent from my CPH2655 using Tapatalk

[EsquireEsque]

No joy, I'm afraid.

Sorted that out and any difference is very minimal.

Well - I'll make a metal notched straight edge and check the fretboard.

See if frets are all level Then see if the frets are a little higher on the Low E side.

If that's all as it should be... then as you suggest it's taping at the 12 or 9th fret and lightly go over the 22 to 11 frets.....