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Thread: Artist LP Kit Build.

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  1. #1
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    DT can be very fickle stuff to use. I even had 2 completely different looking MkI batches of Coolangatta Gold that had me wondering if they were in fact the same colour? One was clear and translucent whilst the next batch was opaque and looked more like satay sauce.

    That blotchy reaction happened a lot on my first couple of builds and reckon it is all down to weather conditions and lack of proper curing time allowed between coats. Also a big reason why I ended up using TO for top coats and continued using it on next 4 builds as it is so much more forgiving and easier to use with minimal "stuffing it up" risks attached. Might not be as environmentally friendly but neither is poly, nitro or acrylic.
    Yes I've noticed it can be a bit fickle.
    Ordering some true oil today which I should have done in the first place.
    I have learned a big lesson out of this and I certainly won't be so gung ho about my finishing choices in future.
    I'm starting over on this one.

  2. #2
    For colours I can recommend Keda Powder Dyes. Round figures I think it was $45 delivered which included 5 colours and you can then mix your own custom colours.
    I coloured this one with them with mostly red, a little black and a little blue in warm water.



    Robbo


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockfactor View Post
    For colours I can recommend Keda Powder Dyes. Round figures I think it was $45 delivered which included 5 colours and you can then mix your own custom colours.
    I coloured this one with them with mostly red, a little black and a little blue in warm water.



    Robbo


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks Robbo ill check it out.

  4. #4
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Shame to see all the DT stain colour sanded off as if reverting to TO it goes on top with no issues at all.

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  5. #5
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    Shame to see all the DT stain colour sanded off as if reverting to TO it goes on top with no issues at all.

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    Yes it was a painful thing to do I was intending to keep the Dingotone stain but it was to far gone so I decided to strip it back and start again still going to use DT again.

  6. #6
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    All good mate.

    As a base stain DT is good, just gotta watch how many coats and how it is thickening up and/or not curing properly. 3 or 4 coats would be max and same for the intensifiers too. I just couldn't get the top coat to behave which caused many wet sand backs and switched to TO to bring those 2 builds home (both Explorers). Even after a couple of years the finish feels quite soft and delicate compared to later builds and marks quite easily. In hindsight I always wondered if using the neck finish as final body top coats would have worked better as that stuff is supposed to set or go off harder and tougher.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  7. #7
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    All good mate.

    As a base stain DT is good, just gotta watch how many coats and how it is thickening up and/or not curing properly. 3 or 4 coats would be max and same for the intensifiers too. I just couldn't get the top coat to behave which caused many wet sand backs and switched to TO to bring those 2 builds home (both Explorers). Even after a couple of years the finish feels quite soft and delicate compared to later builds and marks quite easily. In hindsight I always wondered if using the neck finish as final body top coats would have worked better as that stuff is supposed to set or go off harder and tougher.
    I do like the DT there is a bit of a knack to using it. I used neck final coat on the top of this one. I don't know if that is why the top hasn't reacted but its possible.

  8. #8
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Yeah, the knack is to wring the damped in stain rag so dry that you think there is nothing in it and then start applying. Any wetter than that and it goes on too thick which compounds the curing time aspect.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  9. #9
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    It's been a couple of weeks since I have updated my threads and that's mostly due to having a few tough weeks and getting a little disheartened after the finish stuff up. In the midst of it all I just haven't done anything. Until today that is i had ordered a new DT stain kit and some true oil last week which arrived today.
    So I have stripped the body back and am basically starting from scratch.

  10. #10
    Member Guvna19's Avatar
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    Hi Grubsta, keep at it mate, I stuffed up our JB4-A and was spewin at the time, but everthing worked out ok, with hindsight I realised its all part of the fun and learned lots. i'll bet it comes up great, will be watchin with interest.

    cheers
    Guv

  11. Liked by: Grubsta

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