Hey Novice, don't feel alone with your sand-thru...was being super careful and this just happened tonight flattening some paint not clear![]()
Hey Novice, don't feel alone with your sand-thru...was being super careful and this just happened tonight flattening some paint not clear![]()
Black was my second choice, lol.
I feel bad saying this but it’s nice to know I’m not alone with sand-throughs. Just looking at all the builds I have much to learn. Everyone here does such an amazing job!
Advice needed on crack! Started to tap in the first bridge peg and noticed a hairline crack appear across the grain! So I stopped, pulled the peg out and took the attached pic. You can see a hairline on the top bit it only goes down about 1mm so managed to stop before i did anything too major.
I did check the hole size by putting the peg in by hand and it seemed tight but started to go in so thought it would be ok to tap in, obviously not.
I was thinking of sanding a little just to make the hole slightly larger...but how to handle the crack and stop it from getting worse, especially if I'm bending the bridge back and forth when playing over time??
I also have a round file that i can use just to get a little extra room.
Thoughts?
Build #001 PBG SV-1 Complete
Build #002 Non PBG PRS Style Semi Hollow Complete
Build #003 PBG TL-1TB Complete
Build #004 PBG IC-1 In Progress
Build #005 SMS 7Q - In Progress
For the crack, get some thin super glue and what they call a whip tail, it’s like a thin piece of plastic flexible rod that goes in the end.
you can use that to wick some of the super glue into the crack to stabilise it.
I’d be really careful about widening the hole, I’d be more inclined to get some wax and lubricate the anchor before putting it in.
Give the glue overnight to set and cure before you do it though.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Thanks for the advice FW, I hadn’t thought of that but will give that a go.
Also put the post receivers in the freezer for 20mins before tapping them in. Plus some wax and they should go in easily. Then the will warm up, expand and seat themselves.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Thanks SM. I definitely wouldn’t have thought of that! Just hope the hairline crack doesn’t worsen over time with all those dive bombs in hanging out to do with the FR!
UPDATE: I tried one of the pegs in the freezer and it went in! Tried without the wax first to see if it would work and i was able to put in by hand for half of it and tapped in lightly for the rest, with no crack (so far). I was looking at the other one and the more i look the more it seems to be a crack in the clear coat rather than the wood, but not 100% sure.
Last edited by a_novice; 10-03-2019 at 09:32 AM.
lol...Being a fixed bridge guy all my life i'm keen to try something new, and with all that re-tuning ahead the excitement may wear off pretty quickly...hahahaha...out comes the whammy bar and the FR is just for looks....
Build #001 PBG SV-1 Complete
Build #002 Non PBG PRS Style Semi Hollow Complete
Build #003 PBG TL-1TB Complete
Build #004 PBG IC-1 In Progress
Build #005 SMS 7Q - In Progress
Just after some advice on installing the spring claw.
1. Do i install with the screw hole side flat against the wall of the cavity? or
2. Do in stall with the bottom flat against the bottom of the cavity? or
3. It makes no difference?
Also should the screws go in straight / flat or on a slight downward angle?
Build #001 PBG SV-1 Complete
Build #002 Non PBG PRS Style Semi Hollow Complete
Build #003 PBG TL-1TB Complete
Build #004 PBG IC-1 In Progress
Build #005 SMS 7Q - In Progress