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Thread: Artist LP Kit Build.

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  1. #1
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Another coat of intensifier on this arvo after the first coat it looked quite orange but it has started to darken up ill see how it looks tomorrow.

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  3. #2
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Many bad words were uttered this afternoon when i got home and went to inspect the L.P body.
    I decided to spray a light coat of clear over it yesterday after some wet sanding and the clear i have used has had a reaction. Now I know there's a few reasons why this could have happened but im leaning toward improper cleaning after the wet sanding. In any case ill have to sand away the clear and start again. A frustrating experience but also a good lesson in paying attention to what you are doing and the results of being impateint.

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  4. #3
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    What kind of clear are you spraying? Haven't you been using Dingotone?
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  5. #4
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    What kind of clear are you spraying? Haven't you been using Dingotone?
    It's just the sca brand clear which I have used plenty of times.
    I have used the clear in conjunction with Dingotone on the JMA with no issues but its also very possible that it has reacted with the Dingotone. In saying that it hasn't reacted on the top of the guitar and despite a very small run it has turned out pretty nice.

  6. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It's a wax/oil finish you've been using. I don't know of any paint finishes that would work well with that. I know Tru-Oil goes over Dingotone from other's experiences, but all the spray finishes I know require clean, grease-free surfaces to work on. I'd suggest you either use Tru-Oil, or wait a month or so to see if the oils/waxes have then evaporated fully leaving only the stain behind and try spraying again.

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  8. #6
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    It's a wax/oil finish you've been using. I don't know of any paint finishes that would work well with that. I know Tru-Oil goes over Dingotone from other's experiences, but all the spray finishes I know require clean, grease-free surfaces to work on. I'd suggest you either use Tru-Oil, or wait a month or so to see if the oils/waxes have then evaporated fully leaving only the stain behind and try spraying again.
    Correct Simon i knew there were some risks in taking this approach and I did test the clear over Dingotone on some spare timber with no issues before going ahead with the body. Im a bit puzzled that there has been no issues on the top though.

  9. #7
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    It's possible the solvents are compatible but that in that patch they weren't cured quite enough before you sprayed.

    Regardless, acrylic lacquer over an oil based product like dingo tone is not really a good long term recipe. My instinct is that it will craze in years to come, because the lacquer will fully harden before the oil does.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

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  11. #8
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    It's possible the solvents are compatible but that in that patch they weren't cured quite enough before you sprayed.

    Regardless, acrylic lacquer over an oil based product like dingo tone is not really a good long term recipe. My instinct is that it will craze in years to come, because the lacquer will fully harden before the oil does.
    Yeah I've had a good amount of time to think about it and the more I do the more I realise that it was not a very good way to go about it. Oh well a tad embarrassing but its still worth sharing this so others don't try the same hairbrained ideas. I haven't really lost anything except time and a small amount of pride.
    I'm going to take it back to scratch and start over and do it properly.

  12. #9
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Different colour Dingotone will have different components in them, so it may also be something to do with that colour DT as it seemed to go over the clear DT OK. Or as Sonic says, it just wasn't dry enough.

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  14. #10
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    DT can be very fickle stuff to use. I even had 2 completely different looking MkI batches of Coolangatta Gold that had me wondering if they were in fact the same colour? One was clear and translucent whilst the next batch was opaque and looked more like satay sauce.

    That blotchy reaction happened a lot on my first couple of builds and reckon it is all down to weather conditions and lack of proper curing time allowed between coats. Also a big reason why I ended up using TO for top coats and continued using it on next 4 builds as it is so much more forgiving and easier to use with minimal "stuffing it up" risks attached. Might not be as environmentally friendly but neither is poly, nitro or acrylic.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

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