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Thread: H's JBA-4 Fretless

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  1. #1
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    On this one I used satin poly. It gave me a nice durable finish without too much effort and I do not need to worry about kids dinging a mirror gloss finish!

    Keep going with the neck it requires a lot of patience. The clouding drove me nuts!

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  2. #2
    Member UpperCaseH's Avatar
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    Decided to decide, picked up some FW mahogany and japan black prooftint today along with FW colour reducer. Plan is to use the mahogany diluted none or a little, then go over with a more diluted japan black. What kind of ratio of reducer : stain do you reckon I should be looking at?

    Further question: I understand that I can use an oil finish on an oil based stain, but this is "spirit" stain. One site I read said that with wood stain oil = spirit, but I thought I'd check here if I can tru-oil this stuff or if spirit stain is actually different (I mean, they're labelled differently, but I don't know enough about this). If I can't tru-oil it, I might try a wipe on poly. Is minwax the go there, or something different?

    I also finally got around to selling my old bass and amp, so I've got some extra cash for music stuff and am now tossing up between building another bass and buying some effects... not a bad problem to have

  3. #3
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hi H, I have used FW proof tints and tru oil no problem. I would guess the mini wax should work ok but you would have to test it first on scrap.
    With the reducer you really need to experiment with the ratio to achieve the colour stain you are after. The FW mahogany stain has a really deep red colour to it, more red than brown. Also the Japan black isn't as black as the straight FW black.

    I'd have a play around with some scrap wood to get the colours you are after
    Current Builds and status
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  4. #4
    Member UpperCaseH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    I'd have a play around with some scrap wood to get the colours you are after
    OK, will do. Sounds like fun! Don't have any ash to test on, but I guess I'll try it on pine and also on maple headstock offcuts (and if that looks good I might try doing the neck and head the same colour).

    Quote Originally Posted by Dedman View Post
    what does it say to clean up with? Turps = Oil.
    Clean up says methylated spirits, so I guess it's oil. Thanks!

  5. #5
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hi H, I have used FW proof tints and tru oil no problem. I would guess the mini wax should work ok but you would have to test it first on scrap.
    With the reducer you really need to experiment with the ratio to achieve the colour stain you are after. The FW mahogany stain has a really deep red colour to it, more red than brown. Also the Japan black isn't as black as the straight FW black.

    I'd have a play around with some scrap wood to get the colours you are after
    Woks makes a good point there. The FW mahogany is more red - the colortone mahogany is more brown.

    Also the underlying wood will affect the final colour. The Tele I stained was Alder which had its own unique colour twinge.
    Last edited by andrewdosborne; 07-09-2016 at 01:01 PM.
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  6. #6
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    what does it say to clean up with? Turps = Oil.
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  7. #7
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    If you scroll down this thread I used neat FW mahogany for the body (& TO for the finish)

    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=4596&page=5
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  8. #8
    Member UpperCaseH's Avatar
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    That's a great colour, I can see it working with the black over it too.

    I'll have a play around tomorrow or the next day on some scrap, and then get started on the body. Like I said early int he thread, rather than plan this build out step by step I was gonna try to kind of go with the flow a bit and see where it leads. So if comes up that red over the ash I might forget about the black and let that vivid red/brown over ebony timbermate be the colour.

  9. #9
    Member UpperCaseH's Avatar
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    Wow... glad I tested these! The "mahogany" on pine and maple comes out in colour that I'd describe as "red wine spilled on tablecoth". Not all that attractive to me, and not what I was after at all.

    I'll see how it dries overnight, and if it's the same colour in the morning I'm gonna pick up either (or both of) Walnut or Brown Japan from the same brand and see how those go.

  10. #10
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hi H, I did warn you the mahogany is a deep red. The walnut/brown japan and Jarrah are a nice brown if that's what you are chasing. The mahogany will dry a pretty similar colour or maybe deepen a touch
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

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