My work here is done......runs off.........MUahahahhahahahaa
Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
Build 15 PBG-2-
Build 14 FTD-1
Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
Build 12 DM-1S
Build 11 MKA-2 -
Build 10 Basic strat
Build 9 JM Kustom
Build 8 FV-1G
Build 7 ES-2V
Build 6- Community prototype
Build 5 LP-1LQ
Build 4 ES-5V
Build 3 JR-1
Build 2 GD-1
Build 1 TLA-1
lol good idea Dedman. I like your style. I'm not sure if I would have that skill. Jokomo on Ebay in Japan could custom make you ivy fret inlay stickers I bet.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Hi Joe, been away for past 10 days and just catching up on some threads & builds. Yours is coming along nicely.
Just a heads up with the ink, as it is water based you could have wetted things down next day to take off most of the colour before commencing with the sanding. Too late now but something worth keeping in the back of your mind for next time.
With the tone caps, wouldn't recommend the 0.047's as most Humbucker PUP manufacturers suggest using 0.022's as the bigger the number the darker and muddier things get therefore 0.047's are usually suggested for single coils as used in Strat's & Tele's.
For the Maple Fret Board there are many suggestions on what you should and should not do and it all comes down to personal preference. If you have ever played a Strat with Maple FB most of them are heavily lacquered and you could do the same with acrylic of even Tru Oil which is what I did on my Non Pit Bull J Bass. Just means you have to 0000 steel wool the frets to remove any finish. I then went on to use same steel wool on the Fret Board to get more of a satin feel and finish. Also hit it with some Meguair's Car polish front & back and looks/feels great. Over time any finish on a maple FB will tend to disintegrate which only adds to the character of the guitar in my opinion.
I have a mate who plays a EVH Wolfgang and they come with a raw maple FB. He uses lemon oil every string change which is weird as their instructions strictly advise against using on maple? Seems to be that if you are going to run raw or naked that you will need to treat it with some oil or wax more frequently.
Welcome back!![]()
I really like the colour of the fretboard but leaving it untreated seems kind of wrong perhaps i'll build up 2-3 very thin layers of TO i was planning to steel wool the frets anyway.
For wax i will probably get tru oil wax its specifically designed to go together so i'll be 100% sure it won't conflict with the oil.
Ordered me a bunch of these will be attempting to make dot inlays with them have to try on scrap wood first though.
I wonder if i could inlay the dots on the binding as well. Damn you dedman!![]()
Verstuurd vanaf mijn D6603 met Tapatalk
Builds:
WIP: LP-1S "Poison Ivy"
Sounds like a good plan. Believe the black dot markers come out fairly easy and one of the forum members has done a piece on such some time not so long ago.
The dots won't be painted on, unless you have a one-of-a-kind factory first. All the maple fretboards typically have black plastic dots, usually 2-3mm deep. If you look closely you should see some fine sanding scratches on them from when the fretboard was sanded prior to the frets being installed.
Scott.