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Thread: First Build - PSH-1 Hollowbody

  1. #101

  2. #102

    First Build - PSH-1 Hollowbody

    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    You didn't say what the blemishes were trying to fix, but if it was a small area like a bit of dust/debris or a drip/run, below is a little woodworkers trick that is great for targeting a very specific spot without sanding the entire surface.

    strip-sanding technique link

    You can cut the strip as narrow or wide as you need to accommodate the area that requires sanding. I use this technique all the time when I'm doing a finish.
    Thanks. Basically issues with how the truoil has set in visible locations and me being a bit OCD. Using the coffee filters is heaps better than cloth I have not had any more issues with the finish, just dust which I discover I can polish out with a lint free cloth.


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  3. #103
    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    I lied, the little tabs are still on there
    Thanks. I reckon I will be installing in 2 weeks. A lot more tru oil to go


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  4. #104
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    The locking washer with the jagged edge is supposed to go on top but looks a bit ugly. Prs themselves use smaller switches and seem to have a thin washer that is concealed behind the nut.
    The anti-vibration washer ("jagged edge" one) typically goes on the underside of the body or cavity to prevent it loosening up and turning. The thin shiny one (called a "dress" washer) goes on the outside under the nut to mask the hole that the threaded bushing goes through.

    This is the same for control pots too.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  5. Liked by: mrpearson

  6. #105



    Few weeks since last update as I have just been applying tru-oil coats daily. (Around 20 coats so far). As it quite hot in Perth at the moment and Covid restrictions are requiring work from home I am able to apply 3 coats per day. I am using 1200 grade synthetic steel wool pad bought from sandpaper man to smooth every coat now and every 5 coats flattening with a 4000 micro mesh pad. Seems to be working as I am gradually filling the veneer grain that became a lot more open when I was trying to remove all the soaked in glue. (Didn’t want to risk sanding it smooth once I had covered the glue stains). Successfully filled and flattening grain on the horns but I reckon around 15 coats more required around the f-holes. The guitar back needs a lot more coats to get nice and smooth but every coat seems to be getting slightly closer.

    I have applied my head stock decal which took about 6 attempts as I cut out the letters to avoid too much background but the decal kept folding on me when placing. Lucky last try and it is sitting pretty flat and looks like I can bury with tru-oil. Photo shows 2 coats applied.

    Photo also shows custom truss rod cover made from a bit of scrap plastic box. Pretty happy with how this looks now.

    Next update will be 2x final gloss coats of tru-oil (50:50 turp mix)


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  7. #106
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    I like your logo. Very classy. How'd you do the lettering on the truss rod cover? Looks good also.

    Shame about the deep grain below the f hole. Now that you have a base of Tru Oil, would you consider filling and levelling with CA?
    I think it will take an enormous amount of Tru Oil to get that flat. If you filled and levelled with CA, you could then continue over it with Tru Oil. Once dry, CA is fairly innocuous with other finish materials.

    Another option is wet sanding with Tru Oil. It's a method of grain filling referred to as slurry sanding or simply the slurry method.

    You've overcome so much here, and it's looking really good, it would be a shame to have that one spot be the let down of whole project.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #107
    Thanks for the tip. The slurry method could work although a bit nervous that it may go cloudy? Being a bit dim. What is CA?


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  9. #108
    Truss rod cover is a decal applied on the black plastic. Tried to do a cut and bury it but didn’t work so just laid down 1 big decal. I had a whole page of decals printed in different sizes to get some flex. All laser printed which is awesome as no issues with the decal degrading with water or top coat.


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  10. #109
    Quote Originally Posted by mrpearson View Post
    Thanks for the tip. The slurry method could work although a bit nervous that it may go cloudy? Being a bit dim. What is CA?


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    I think CA is code for super glue


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  11. #110
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpearson View Post
    Thanks for the tip. The slurry method could work although a bit nervous that it may go cloudy? Being a bit dim. What is CA?
    It shouldn't go cloudy as the process is just creating "Tru Oil dust" which simultaneously mixes in with the liquid Tru Oil. The "slurry" mixture fills in the grain better because it is a thicker consistency.

    CA = cyanoacrylate (super glue)
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  12. Liked by: mrpearson

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