Simon B's Custom ES-1/ES330 style build

[CascadiaGuitarGeek]

Nice work on the custom inlay Simon. This is shaping up to be quite the nice looking project. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

[Simon Barden]

Inlay No2 failed. The stuff I'm using is just too thin. I can't get the whole thing level enough by sanding before I've sanded through the pearl to the backing. It's relatively easy to cut out the shapes with it, but the down-side is lack of thickness. So I've now got a 2mm thick bit of 'pearl' - well 2 small pieces as Rothco and Frost have almost no inlay stock at all - no idea what's going on there. So it's going to be routing time - just waiting for some very small routing bits to arrive before I can give it a go. Also need to rout a 2mm deep recess in some MDF so I can use the Dremel with the StewMac router attachment and have a flat surface to work with.

I'm still waiting for my pickups to arrive, but I really want to get this inlay business sorted before then so I can stick the neck on the body and finish the finishing. If I can't get this to work, then I'll have to resort to some custom decals.

[Sonic Mountain]

I still think a disc of the abalone, with a waterslide decal over it, cleared, will be the best way to get a pro looking result.

The theory of how you are trying to do it is sound, but its a bit overly complicated and without something like a laser cutter handy its an uphill battle.

But hey, I think it was Edison who said in regards to the lightbulb (allegedly) "I did not fail, I simply found 1000 ways that do not work"

I image Tesla actually said it.....

[Simon Barden]

And I just found out that my router bits are coming from China (I should have checked the delivery times a bit more closely), so that's around 4 weeks away.

I'll think about the decal option, as now I've set my mind on an inlay, I want to do it if I can.

[Simon Barden]

Well, I've weakened and ordered a colour laser printer and some decal paper. Still have to work out exactly how to merge the inlay into the headstock as some levelling will be required but I can't obviously sand the decal. Options so far seem to be:

1) Cut the decal so that it stops at the inner part of the ring, so I have a few mm round the edge to carefully sand up to.

2) Put several clear coats over the inlay before fitting, so there is some surface that can be sanded, though it's obviously easy to over-sand this if one isn't careful and the inlay height compared to the headstock paint surface isn't quite right. There's always going to need to be some filling round the edge of the inlay which will need sanding.

[Dedman]

I usually just put the decal down,and start clearing over it. After 3 or 4 coats, a light sand, rinse, repeat, in no time its all level.
Both my metal inlays were far from level, but layers of clear levelled it all

[Simon Barden]

The penny has just dropped. I was planning to put the decal on the inlay roundel first, then put that into the recess in the headstock.

Instead, I put the pearl or abalone piece in the headstock first, fill the edges than paint and level everything off, then I add the decal in the middle, then clear coat over the whole thing. I'll still have to add several layers of clear to be able to level the whole thing, but it's a lot easier way to do it (and far more likely to work) than than my previous ideas.

There are times when I really am very thick!

[Simon Barden]

Now I'm thinking that I could use a decal for the whole headstock. I'll have to see how black the black prints out on the decal paper.

It will save having to build up multiple coats of clear just to match the decal height.

[wazkelly]

Just catching up on lots of builds and enjoying reading about this one.

Red is a tricky colour to get right due to how much orange or blue/maroon tones you are trying to achieve. Being slightly darker than a typical cherry ES should look better in my opinion with lots of bright hardware to add some sparkle.

Have to admire your tenacity with the inlay, just goes to prove there is more than one way to skin a cat. One way to disguise the decal is to cut out the sheet so that it is slightly bigger than whole of headstock and attach the lot, trim it up with a scalpel or razor blade once dry, and there should be no visible edges that you get by dropping a smaller cut-out logo on top. Several clear coats to add some protective layers and also seal the edges off is probably all that it would need to finish off.

Cheers, Waz

[Simon Barden]

Yes, I agree. Hopefully be able to catch up a bit of time with that method as well. Had to tidy away all my workspace, but can get it all out again tomorrow.