Might need to drop the sanding radius or cork sanding block and just use grit paper folded over with your fingers and keep checking after a few passes back and forth. Even with 2000 used wet it is surprising just how much cut is possible. You will also end up at a point where it is not so good to sand up and down long sections either as that is most likely when more damage will be done without realising it. Towards the end I was concentrating on no more than 70mm to 100mm sections at a time.
If the surface goes crazy like it did in one of your earlier shots don't panic and sand like a madman, instead see if adding another thin coat helps to even things out and make sure you give it double the amount of time you think it needs as some of those shiny patches can just be a gel like skin and turn to crap real quick. If you give things more time the harder and tougher the surface becomes but that doesn't necessarily make the finishing off job any harder, in fact it becomes easier as you start to understand how it reacts with itself and the underlying coats already applied.
Edit: Another reason for wearing a mask is to prevent inhaling the sanded dust particles too as they tend to gum up inside your nose and block things up, and not forgetting just how toxic this stuff is in any state or form. Same deal with sanding guitar bodies too as fine Basswood or Ash dust up the nose is yucky and Timber Mate is pretty nasty too.
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