good stuff Muzza, we will need to see some pics please when the HS veneer cures and clamps are off.
How did the veneer look raw with bit of wet cloth over it ?
good stuff Muzza, we will need to see some pics please when the HS veneer cures and clamps are off.
How did the veneer look raw with bit of wet cloth over it ?
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
I was supposed to put a wet rag on it???
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956
I've got some of that masking fluid Tweakster, but I find its too runny and thin to be effective.
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956
I just used a higher quality masking tape bought at the big green shed.....it was yellow in colour and supposed to be ok for remaining on a job for a long period of time. Left no residue on either of the EX builds which meant the tape was on for at least 4 - 5 months covering the edge and top of the rosewood fret board. Mind you I did cut out a bit of that plasticky stuff the necks were packed in to cover the Fret Board and then brought the tape across from the dot marker edge....you what I mean.
I've bought that blue tape used by car detailer's as well, 3M 1mm 971 tape I think it's called.....rather expensive for what it is.
I used it to cover the binding of my ES-3 neck binding when dying the fret board black with Indian Ink
Muzz,
I am trying my hand at a dingotone burst from black stump to a "hybrid" colour i've made up on a scrap bit of pine. both colours look fine but it doesn't seem to be blending too well in the middle (stark contrast colours). do they blend better after more stain coats or is there a trick to it?
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Mate... I really appreciate you coming to me for advice, but I'm not the right person to ask about anything regarding DingoTone. I've had so much trouble using it and tried so many different methods over such a seemingly long time, I don't remember what worked and what didn't anymore.
You could try making a 'blending shade' by combining the two colours into a third YOGOT tub.
Also, don't expect to get the finished burst effect in the first application. I think that's ONE area where I messed up.
Overall, I'm pretty disappointed with my DT experience. To be clear, I'm NOT saying DT isn't a great product. It just doesn't like me or my methods. And I HATE the waiting between coats. If you make a fluff-up, you've got to wait up to a week to fix it. It's intensely frustrating.
One little insight... I wanted a really 'BLACK' black on my builds and had to help the black stump along with Feast Watson Proof Tint black. I could've used 2 full bottles of black stump and still not got it as black as one single coat of FWPT.
Might be be worth putting a question up in the DingoTone section.
It would've been really helpful if there was a tutorial video on this topic when I started this (these) project(s) back at the end of January.
I've seen what you're capable of and I'm confident you'll end up doing an amazing job, and I'm quite chuffed that you thought I could be of help.
Good luck mate.
Last edited by Muzza; 18-05-2016 at 04:36 PM.
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956
Lol @ YOGOT.
Thanks Muzz, I thought your blend between BS and NO looked quite good.
BTW...in my tests on some pine, there was a massive difference between applying BS over timbermate compared to unsealed. the BS on unsealed pine went "blacker than black" immediately and held quite well, whereas the timbermated pine needs many more coats.
That being said the other stains i've used, coolangatta gold, outback sunset, karajini red and custom rosewood have no issue with timber treated with timbermate, but then again there colours are not as dark.
Anyways, I hope your build goes well. I enjoy reading it.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Well the quality of the quilted maple headstock veneer (from the sam supplier) was of substantially better quality.
I'm finally ready to start applying the finish coats on the neck. Already started on the body.
One thing bothering me. The fretboard feels quite rough. I haven't seen any builds where the fretboard needed sanding. Maybe I'm not looking at enough build threads.
How does one go about sanding the fretboard with the frets installed?
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956