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Thread: FB-1M Flames Burls - Mahogany

  1. #31
    Wokks, I used titebond, that's what I had on hand, but DB said it's more common to use fish glue and warned of not being able to use water based finishes.
    The Behlen poly isn't water based but the stain put on the mahogany might be, I have U-beaut and stewmac stains to play with. U-beaut mix with water only, stewmac's colortone mix with alcohol and water, but I only have a couple of those to mix a suitable colour with. Haven't planned that far ahead yet.

  2. #32
    Moderator dingobass's Avatar
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    Oh poo bum wee......
    It was worth a try though.
    Deffo go with the alcohol based dyes. I reccomend Wild Turkey for the job

    There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....

  3. #33
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Bugger. Guess if you got it all perfect, first time, every time then there isn't a lot of room to learn and grow eh?
    If it had been me, I probably would have stripped the veneer with the swearing alone.

  4. #34
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dingobass View Post
    Oh poo bum wee......
    It was worth a try though.
    Deffo go with the alcohol based dyes. I reccomend Wild Turkey for the job
    Sounds like he may need to enlist the help of both Jack & Jim and possibly Maker's Mark too to get this job done.

  5. #35
    Well, after some scraping, sanding and swearing (lots of swearing) the first veneering attempt has been removed. Might need to have some Turkey 101 on hand for the next attempt.
    On a positive, have shaped and glued the veneer to the HS. Used the tape and super glue trick to stick the veneer to the caul I made and sanded it to shape, carefully, then used a putty knife to separate the pieces. Then used painters tape to mark the position for it on the HS, thought that if I used pencil to mark the outline it could be a problem to get rid of the marks after the veneer is on. Seemed to work well. Will look a bit strange if I don't get the body done as well.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Question for DB; can I use titebond liquid hide glue (brown bottle) in place of fish glue?
    I can get that locally but the only fish glue I've found is from stewmac and the postage is more than the product. Do you know of an Aus supplier I could contact?
    Cheers

    Grant

  6. #36
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    wow Grant that headstock looks totally sick, stock standard high standard again !
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  7. #37
    Moderator dingobass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neverwas View Post
    Well, after some scraping, sanding and swearing (lots of swearing) the first veneering attempt has been removed. Might need to have some Turkey 101 on hand for the next attempt.
    On a positive, have shaped and glued the veneer to the HS. Used the tape and super glue trick to stick the veneer to the caul I made and sanded it to shape, carefully, then used a putty knife to separate the pieces. Then used painters tape to mark the position for it on the HS, thought that if I used pencil to mark the outline it could be a problem to get rid of the marks after the veneer is on. Seemed to work well. Will look a bit strange if I don't get the body done as well.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	9383Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	9384
    Question for DB; can I use titebond liquid hide glue (brown bottle) in place of fish glue?
    I can get that locally but the only fish glue I've found is from stewmac and the postage is more than the product. Do you know of an Aus supplier I could contact?
    Cheers

    Grant
    Hide glue is good, just be aware that it has a short open time so you need to be super organised..
    I would only do one half at a time to make sure the glue isnt setting before you lay the veneer.

    There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....

  8. #38
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    DB what is the stuff you recommended to me last veneer I glued ? there was a horizontal or vertical glue, can't remember the name. Think it was a Sellys product
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  9. #39
    Thanks Wokks.
    If the open time for the hide glue is about the same as the titebond original I used first time around, shouldn't be a problem, will do one side at a time anyway. Thanks DB.
    If there's another suitable product, I'm all ears Wokks.

  10. #40
    More adventures in applying veneer. Got hold of some hide glue and had a go at the control side of the body. Trimmed the straight edge back to straight and taped into position. Applied the hide glue, lay the veneer in place, slid into the vac bag and used the vac bag to pull the veneer flat. Then a sheet of melamine on top, old socket set and bbq gas bottle for weight and left it for an hour and a half.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Took it out of the bag and the mid section wasn't quite flat onto the body. A layer of wax paper, some timber and clamped it all down. Left that overnight and looks to have worked.
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    Made a mess with the glue, cleaned up most with a damp cloth and what is left can get rid of with goof-off. Not sure if I need to do anything about the glue that came through the burls and parts of the flamed section. The burls probably won't be an issue, just where the flames are might have dark marks stand out when the poly goes on. The glue is still a bit tacky, will try to clean it up a bit more in a day or two.
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    Happier with the result this time around. Thanks for the advice, DB.
    While that was clamped up, reamed out the tuner holes and trimmed the truss rod rout on the HS.
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    Grant

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