I'm trying to upload the photos. Got home and checked the multimeter again. Getting constant resistance across the outside pins. Only getting resistance from middle (wiper) to input when pot on 10. No resistance at any other point in the shaft rotation on both volume pots.
Last edited by Rodger; 02-02-2016 at 05:12 PM.
Resize the photos to no more than 1000 px on the longest side and file size less than 1MB.
Scott.
If that's the case, both pots are shot! What's the odds of that? A Pot is also known as a Variable Resistor. You get a variable resistance between the middle and either of the outer pins as you turn the dial. If you only get a reading when it's on 10, and across the outer pins, then the wiper (middle pin) isn't contacting until it gets to one end.Originally Posted by Rodger
1st build - Blue ES-12G ->-Build Diary-<-
2nd build - Father/Son collaboration MB-1 ->-Build Diary-<-
3rd build - GR-SF1 ->-Build Diary-<-
4th build - FS-1 ->-Build Diary-<-
See photos above. Please let me know if you need better detail
Last edited by Rodger; 02-02-2016 at 06:55 PM.
The first thing that jumps out is you're probably getting a short between the braided ground and the hot tip/arm on the output jack:
I'm not sure, but it looks like there's something wrong/missing with the neck volume/neck tone connection. It's difficult to tell if there are some other shorted spots, but realistically, you are probably better off pulling it apart and starting over. Currently it's not really using the shielded wire to best advantage, either for wiring efficiency or actual signal shielding. Ideally, you want the shielding around a 'hot' wire to carry the ground connection between points, rather than running a separate ground like you have on the output jack etc. Once it's all apart, test each component separately to ensure they're all working individually, then rewire and reassemble.
I'm not sure if it will help, but a while ago I did a rough diagram to help a member with the braided wiring on their bass. The wiring layout is obviously different to yours, but it should give you an idea of how to use the inner core as the 'hot' signal wire with the surrounding shield/braid wire for the ground.
Last edited by WeirdBits; 02-02-2016 at 08:33 PM. Reason: more info
Scott.
Thanks gents. The odds of them being shot are pretty high I'd say as there is a good chance I cooked them during the soldering process. Scott I've separated all the braided stuff away from other points and equipment to ensure it wasn't shorting and still no result. I got too clever for my own good. A mans got to know his limitations. I'll start again; test the pots out of the loom and replace if necessary. Is the grey audio cable OK to use? If so, I'd prefer to use the loose cable around the inner sheided cable as it it a beeter size for all the connections. Do you see any problem with that?
Cooked pots maybe and lots of shorts on that braided wire by the looks, i can see a few likely problems that i would investigate, read rewire.
Put some heat shrink tube on the braided cable, apply some heat from a lighter to shrink it, then check the pots, if you got them too hot they will have cooked, i always attach alligator clips to them as a heat sink, and i am only on the pots long enough to melt some solder onto them, i then solder on the tinned wires.
Give the top of the pots a sanding before you solder them.
So I pulled it all apart and re-tested the pots. As it tuns out, they're functioning just fine. Anyway, solved the problem by buying a pre-wired loom on ebay in the same set-up. Took just two minutes, one click and all for the cost of a Chiko roll and small big M. The parts aren't as good as the one I was planning but the end result will surely exceed anything I can put together. The quality will possibly match the limitations of the guitar. Now I can start on my new builds and stick to working with tools and mediums I understand.
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