Tindrrel's JR-1M

[wokkaboy]

Sam before you mod the neck heel put the bridge where it should be and check intonation distances.
If you have enough saddle play to bring the neck about 2-3mm closer (once the gap is removed) then I'd draw a line 90 degrees to the bottom of the heel and sand it back so the neck heel butts up to the body to eliminate the gap.
Most G type guitars have a neck break angle to compensate the higher bridges

[Tindrrel]

Has the person thats done the routing drilled a hole from neck to bridge pup ?

Yes, they added a hole for the neck pickup wire.

You might have to enlarge the hole from bridge pup cavity to control cavity to fit the extra wires. Are the pickups just a hot and earth wire or 4 wires (splittable) ?

Just a hot and earth/shield. Braided wire. The hole from the bridge to cavity was about 8mm already. I expect to have to channel it a bit lower in the bridge pickup route so the pickup can sit all the way in the route.

Also you will need a switch so you may have to ditch the tone pot or make the cavity bigger for a switch?

Looking at the distance between the 2 holes you may fit a switch between them

I may be able to fit a switch between them. Haven't quite decided what I'm doing there. One thought is concentric volume and tone dual gang pots. Another is that there may actually be enough room there for four pots and knobs. Perhaps not normal sized speed knobs. Wiring it up on a drop in metal plate harness may be the go.

[andrewdosborne]

For my JR, I had to flatten the bottom of the neck heel and as a result it sat lower in the neck pocket. The pickguard sat snuggly underneath in the gap. I did carefully keep an eye on the neck break angle and effect it would have with the bridge. My bridge replacement sat lower than the kit supplied one so no issues. I think from memory when running a long rule down the centre of the neck it cleared the top of bridge by 1/16th of an inch

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[wokkaboy]

sure Sam there will be a few wiring options for the extra neck pup mod.I'd wait for Weirdy to give some ideas. Depends if you prefer a switch or a push pull pot to control volumes and tones of each pup

[andrewdosborne]

Ah yes also I moved it forward in the pocket (as Woks suggested) checking intonation measurements.

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[Tindrrel]

Sam before you mod the neck heel put the bridge where it should be and check intonation distances.
If you have enough saddle play to bring the neck about 2-3mm closer (once the gap is removed) then I'd draw a line 90 degrees to the bottom of the heel and sand it back so the neck heel butts up to the body to eliminate the gap.
Most G type guitars have a neck break angle to compensate the higher bridges

I certainly didn't think I'd be changing the neck break angle. I did look at that and it seems spot on.

I checked the scale length before and it seemed right too, but there may be some allowance in the saddles to get rid of that gap.

If not, should I glue a shim in the gap to close it and get a solid contact from the heel to body?

[wokkaboy]

Sam put the pickguard on the gap at the top may not be visible.
I meant sand the back end of the heel. Don't touch the bottom where it sits in the pocket.
If the distances to the bridge are good now I'd glue a shim in the back of the pocket as you suggested

[Tindrrel]

Sam put the pickguard on the gap at the top may not be visible.

Yeah. If things go to plan (some experimentation needed with lacquer) I won't be putting a pickguard on. Will see, might still put one on anyway. But it's not the appearance of the gap that bothers me, it's the lack of contact wood to wood.

I meant sand the back end of the heel. Don't touch the bottom where it sits in the pocket.

I understood that. Don't change the neck break, but maybe change the distance to the bridge. I checked the neck break with the long ruler test just now - with the bridge on the deck the ruler lines up with the notches in the saddles. Seems spot on to me - action adjusted by lifting the bridge up from the deck.

If the distances to the bridge are good now I'd glue a shim in the back of the pocket as you suggested

So, from nut to 12th fret is 31.4mm, maybe 31.5. Then from 12th fret to the bridge is variable, depending on how the bridge is set up.

Taking a couple of mm off the neck heel would let those screws go back in again a little, pushing the bridge off the posts and further back to make up the difference.

[andrewdosborne]

Sam put the pickguard on the gap at the top may not be visible.
I meant sand the back end of the heel. Don't touch the bottom where it sits in the pocket.
If the distances to the bridge are good now I'd glue a shim in the back of the pocket as you suggested

Hello Sam, just to confirm the heel of my JR neck only had to be sanded flat as out of the box it was machined with a small hump lengthways. It would not sit correctly/flat in the pocket.

[Tindrrel]

I'm getting the feeling that shaving off the end of the neck to make it sit flush in the pocket means shifting the bridge to the extremes of its adjustment range. I think I'll just put a shim in there. (Easier said than done, specialist piece of wood.)