Stans LP build

[dingobass]

/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from stan on May 28, 2014, 16:57
great explanation Gav!

Will Dingotone go over acrylic paint and does it come in gloss and satin clears?

In a word, no.
Dingotone has been designed as a 'ground up' finish, thus eliminating the need for any other types of sealers etc.

At this time there is only a semi gloss top coat available.
I am reticent to go down the full, ultra high gloss road as in my opinion high gloss finishes reflect too much light and effectivly "kill" a lot of the subtle figure of the timber.

However, I am aware that many folk love shiny things so I will develop a high gloss top coat 8-)

Satin finish can be gained by very gentle buffing with 0000 steel wool once the top coat has fully cured..

[stan]

agreed Jarrod that tone is a combination of many factors - timber, electronics, nuts, bridges, hardware, finishes and all these things come together to give a final result.

Thanks for that DB

Cheers Gav and Bargy

So just how long is enough for acrylic? I'll have to bake it at this rate...

[dingobass]

Stan, the general rule of thumb for cure times is at least a few weeks!
I know, I know, two weeks?!......
Yep. Paints cure from the outside in, so whilst the outside is hard the inside is still soft and gooey....
One of the things I do is to sniff the painted Axe, if I can still smell the solvents I know it is not ready for the next coat.
Might be time for you to build a drying cabinet

[jarrod]

Agreed DB , that is my way of telling if I'm ready for the next coat " the old sniff test" works for me.
Stan I know it can be frustrating waiting for cure times, but as a learning curve the longer you leave inbetween your coats the quicker the over all cure times are. I keep coats thin . That way they cure quicker.

[stan]

OK checking some minor bumps has shown me that the paint is still soft in the middle - I really am going to put this in the oven now...

After the headstock shaping, there was a groove where the two cuts met. No worries - timbermate to the rescue and some primer:





The inner edges are much better and it should come up well.
In this case the timbermate was dry sanded - if you wet sand it the water resoftens the timbermate and it turns back into paste.

I tried fixing a few flaws in the paint by spraying some primer into the lid of the can and applying it with a small brush to some small chips in the paint. Don't do it! Done this way I found the primer had a higher concerntration of thinner, and it acted more like acid than panit - made small craters in the finish (that had soft paint within...).
So sand it back, let it dry - timbermate again, harden, sand and prime:



Neck is ready for top coat and clear at least... the show goes on!

[bargeloobs]

Looking sweeet Stan and you're moving forward. That's gotta be a good feeling!!

[Nickosaurus]

Good to see some positive progress with the paint mate.

[stan]

thanks guys. It is moving forward, but it feels like the occasional jump backwards.
Important thing is that it is still fun, and I'm learning a lot.
I think I will concentrate on getting the neck done, and give the body more curing time

[gavinturner]

Great work on the headstock Stan. I'm glad you got to shape it - much better IMO. She's coming along nicely! Those painted finishes can be a real b*tch - rife with issues and do-overs. I feel your pain believe me. But looks like you can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

cheers,
Gav.

[Andyport]

Good to see things are starting to progress again Stan.
It is difficult this time of year getting those coats dry, can really slow progress down.
Like Jarrod said, try and keep those coats thin.

Cheers,
Andy