It was indeed, and is still shining like that now! It's a great product, but seriously, only a drop or two it spreads like Wudtone!Quote from baldrick on March 28, 2013, 07:41
Nice fretboard Gavin - that was straight on to the bare wood, was it?
It was indeed, and is still shining like that now! It's a great product, but seriously, only a drop or two it spreads like Wudtone!Quote from baldrick on March 28, 2013, 07:41
Nice fretboard Gavin - that was straight on to the bare wood, was it?
Gavmeister
Some pictures of my first attempt after reading up on how to do it by some poor soul who was either incredibly patient and persevering or enjoyed the odd swear word or ten.
I eventually figured there had to be a better way and marched off to Bunnings with the Pots to see if their clear tubing (irrigation section) would fit tightly enough over the Pot control to draw it through the holes of the ES. Fit beautifully and was an absolute pleasure to do from there. Just remember to draw through the Output first, the tubing fits inside the jack....then draw the lower tone and volume pair through, insert the three way switch by hand and then the upper tone and volume pots....
This is the reason why you have longer shielded wires as mentioned in my earlier post. Don't forget to earth the bridge! You may need to drill the hole to the chamber!
Gavmeister
Forgot to post the pics....here they are.
Don't do it this way!!! :P
To protect innocent cameras involved I'd removed the camera to a safe location so don't have pictures of the tubing!
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Gavmeister
Hello all. I've posted this on "General Support" so sorry if you end up reading it twice:
Hi Folks
I hope someone can help me as it's looking like I will have to cut a bit off my neck and I really don't want to do that without being fully informed.
I need to make the nut to 12th fret distance the same as the 12th fret to saddle distance and it looks like I can't do that with the saddle holes in their pre-drilled position. Here's the measurements (it's an ES1GT by the way):
Nut (fretboard-side edge) to middle of 12th fret: 313.5mm
Distances from 12th fret to saddle (middle of each) with the neck pushed in as far as it will go and the saddle adjusters screwed forward towards the bridge pickup as far as they will go (ie the string would be as as "short" as possible):
Low E: 321.5
A: 321
D: 320
G: 319
B: 318.5
HighE: 318
All in mm.
Here are the same measurements with the saddle adjusters wound back as far as they will go towards the tailpiece:
Low E: 327
A: 326
D: 325
G: 324
B: 324
HighE: 323.5
It seems to me that the neck needs to be shortened so that it will fit deeper into the neck pocket to get the 313.5mm between 12th fret and saddle. Am I missing something?
Also, I've got the saddle on with the adjusting screws towards the tailpiece. This won't get rid of the above problem but have I got it the right way around?
Thanks for any help.
One more thing: Stewmac's fret calculator give the following information for a 628mm scale length with tune-o-matic bridge: "629.539mm from nut to centre of treble-side [bridge-mounting] post. Mount bass-side post 1.5 - 3mm further from the nut". Currently I can't get this distance lower than 633mm, which also suggests that the neck needs trimming.
Looking forward to heaps of well-informed, experienced help as I'm itching to get this little beauty finished.
Cheers
Geoff ("Baldrick")
Hi Geoff,
Check out your other post and you will find this link!
http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=4...iewtopic&t=253
And since you are getting close to finishing, unless you want to spend your entire weekend trying to threat those little bastar......little pots through those shi.....ty...little holes I suggest you read this thread....
http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=4...iewtopic&t=230
...or else....you too will end up in therapy with DB and myself before we discovered this little secret!
Gavmeister