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Thread: PBG-2F build. First guitar kit - here we go

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    I have not used the U-beaut polishing oil. I am a big fan of their coloured stains/dyes and their sanding sealer.

    What clear coat did you use?
    I've use quite a few different Ubeaut products over the years - other than this one I've always been happy with the results. Probably me using what I've got, rather than the right product for the job.

    Similar story with the clear, I had a few cans of Supercheap clear enamel floating around so that's what went on the guitar. Stains were feast watson, 1/2lb (or 1/4lb, I've forgotten already!) cut of shellac wiped over. Week of drying time and then many thin coats of the export clear.

    When I build the next one (let's face it, there cannot be only one) I'll map out the clear coating a little more diligently and invest accordingly.

  2. #22
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    bit more progress on lining components up, getting the wiring bird's nest sorted out and finalising alignment within the control cavity. Took a couple of goes and time with the multimeter to see where'd introduced a short...but finally got there with a positive 'tap-tap' when plugged into an amp and giving the humbuckers a gentle tap. I was worried enough there for a while to make the investment in Hayes 'Complete Guitar Wiring' to help me along. That said, now i've got an interesting book and resource to use in future builds.
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  3. #23
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Great that the wiring is working for you with the "tap test".

    My 2 cents worth - As far as the circuit goes, you may have mixed up the volume pots with the tone pots! The tone pots should have the capacitor. Did you make the vol pots the A-type and tone pots the B-type? The circuit will still work if they are switched, but it will affect the amount of change as the volume and tone knobs are rotated.

    I would trim the length of the capacitor leg which hang off the bridge Tone pot.

    I would also add some insulation tape around the legs of the capacitors so that they cannot "short" against the other tabs of the tone pot. Likewise for the Treble bleed mod legs on the Neck volume pot.
    Last edited by Trevor Davies; Yesterday at 07:39 PM.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic), DMS-1 (Mustang).

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    Great that the wiring is working for you with the "tap test".

    My 2 cents worth - As far as the circuit goes, you may have mixed up the volume pots with the tone pots! The tone pots should have the capacitor. Did you make the vol pots the A-type and tone pots the B-type? The circuit will still work if they are switched, but it will affect the amount of change as the volume and tone knobs are rotated.

    I would trim the length of the capacitor leg which hang off the bridge Tone pot.

    I would also add some insulation tape around the legs of the capacitors so that they cannot "short" against the other tabs of the tone pot. Likewise for the Treble bleed mod legs on the Neck volume pot.
    Keen eye for detail! when i made the template reversed the labels accidentally and ended up doing it backwards according to my cardboard, but the same as the pitbull wiring diagram. Also 100% correct on the cap legs, they caused me some grief and ended up being a short - but only when mounted in the cavity...that was a fun problem to solve.

    good suggestion on the insulation tape too, I dont have any floating around at the moment but will need to stop by bunnings for a few bits and pieces.

    Incidentally - do you have any favourite guitar teachers on youtube? I've got a couple of books and a couple of recs on Youtube University but a few extra can't hurt!

  5. #25
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    ...I would trim the length of the capacitor leg which hang off the bridge Tone pot.

    I would also add some insulation tape around the legs of the capacitors so that they cannot "short" against the other tabs of the tone pot. Likewise for the Treble bleed mod legs on the Neck volume pot.
    +1 Good suggestions. If they have a little shrink wrap that would be good too ;-)

    You'll get less of a "birdsnest" by keeping the wires shorter. That's the advantage of using a template, as you have. You can see how long you need the wires to be...and it's generally shorter than you think when you are just eyeballing it (at least that's how it is for me!).

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